SAVVY TRAVELER By
Irene Croft Jr.
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Stumped for a vacation that's exhilarating, value-wise and suitable for all members of your family? You can't go wrong with an old-fashioned, down-to-earth dude ranch, where guest satisfaction is evidenced by an average 75 percent annual return rate.
And as a personal testament: My own extended family has returned 47 summers in succession to the same 125-year-old Wyoming ranch that was President Teddy Roosevelt's favorite stomping ground at the turn of the 20th century.
Dude ranches, aka guest ranches, vary greatly in style and personality but tend to have many generic characteristics in common.
Within the U.S., they are found primarily in the Southwest and Rocky Mountain states: Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. The smallest host fewer than 20 guests per week while bigger spreads can accommodate up to 150 dudes. Some are actually old-time working ranches that accept seasonal guests, while others are resort-style ranches built specifically for year-round vacationers. Many ranches are family owned and operated, providing the personal, homey touch that city slickers appreciate.
RUSTIC TO LUXURIOUS
Accommodations typically will include rooms in a main lodge and/or simple western-style cabins with one or more bedrooms and baths. Decor is often authentic Old West, with Indian blankets on wood floors, stone fireplaces, rustic cowhide furniture and regional artifacts gracing the walls. Rarely are telephones and televisions allowed to intrude upon the tranquility of wide open spaces.
Nearly all ranches are located amidst spectacular desert or mountain scenery, preferably with a creek coursing through the property. The best ranches command 100 or more acres and have access to vast adjoining wilderness areas under state or federal control. The working spreads operate like small, self-contained villages, with veteran ranch hands living on the premises full time. Flossier guest ranches are apt to resemble a resort hotel operation, with mostly nonresident daytime help.
Riding, of course, is the principal offering and attraction of dude ranches. Guests are matched to steeds in accordance with their experience and abilities. Repeat guests are commonly allowed free rein to roam ranch lands on horseback; greenhorns are expected to do their trail-riding with wranglers until they learn the lay of the land. In addition to morning and afternoon or evening rides, guests could be offered all-day picnic excursions on horseback, horse and cattle roundups, moonlight rides and trail camping. Many ranches will make special arrangements for serious cattle drives, high-mountain expeditions, wagon-train treks and numerous other adventures for the intrepid.
HORSES ARE OPTIONAL
Nonriders can hike, swim, fish, birdwatch and partake of all the quiet delights of pristine wilderness areas. Down-home ranch entertainments traditionally include square dances, rough-and- ready rodeos, horseshoe games between dudes and wranglers, roping matches, and rocking on the porch of the main lodge. The grandest designer ranches, appealing to restless city folk, offer all the diversions of regular resorts — tennis, golf, spa facilities and even highfalutin' country music shows.
The traditional dude ranches cater to extended families, often three and four generations together during the summer months. Parents can indulge in their own interests while safely permitting children to roam about without need for constant adult supervision. Teens tend to find one another during a ranch vacation and may be spotted hovering like moths around the wrangler and waitress bunkhouses. More sophisticated guest ranches, particularly in the desert Southwest, attract adult couples and mature singles. Rather than emphasize the great outdoors, these establishments are apt to feature such convivial indoor sports as happy hours, card games, dances and tea parties.
Meals are a highlight of any ranch vacation. At old-fashioned working ranches, these could be hearty, homemade Western fare of the meat-and-potatoes variety, with several choices available. Steak, eggs, flapjacks, fruit juice and a pot of killer cowboy coffee is typical of breakfast. More resort-style ranches will feature a resident chef who can produce memorable gourmet-style fare. For breakfast and lunch, anticipate an informal buffet or family-style service in the dining hall or main lodge. Dinners will usually be served in courses by college students who are most of the seasonal waiter and wrangler staff at dude ranches.
DRESSING THE PART
Packing for a ranch vacation is a snap for the entire family. Jeans, boots and cowboy shirts are standard attire morning, noon and night at old-style dude ranches. For the more formal establishments, men may be expected to don a jacket and bolo tie and women wear fancy cowgirl gear or dresses after dark.
A traditional dude ranch vacation is all-inclusive and represents unmatched value for a budget-minded family. The price you pay covers lodging and all meals, as well as riding, special events and any other standard ranch activities. A week's stay will range from about $1,200 to $3,000 or more per adult, usually with generous reductions for children under 12. Often a tip of 15 percent or more will be added to your bill and will be distributed among all ranch staff. Slicker resort ranches may offer all-inclusive programs, or more typically, a B&B or Modified American Plan arrangement. Before booking, inquire about exactly what's included.
To select the ranch that's right for your family, from no-frills to super posh, try these comprehensive resources as a starting point:
A highly regarded guidebook describing in detail the ambience, facilities, special features and rates of more than 140 guest ranches throughout North America is the seventh edition of Gene Kilgore's "Ranch Vacations," from Avalon Travel Publishing, available at bookstores.
Irene Croft Jr. of Kailua, Kona, is a travel writer and 40-year veteran globetrotter. Her column is published in this section every other week.