WHERE: Hanalei, Kaua'i

WHY GO: Though its central core is a bit touristy, Hanalei is set amidst some of the most beautiful landscape in Hawai'i. Even as you walk through the town, you see verdant taro patches, sharp-edged mountains crouching overhead, rippling waterways surrounded by tall grasses. The vintage buildings in the town, such as the former school, have been turned into shops and restaurants.

WHAT TO DO: Be sure to stop at the lookout at the top of the hill before you make the curvaceous drive down to the bridge that marks the entrance to Hanalei. Take a photograph. And take in the beauty. Once you get down the hill, you can stay busy for hours, even though the town is tiny. If you like shopping and eating, you'll be happy. If you enjoy kayaking and birdwatching, ditto. Quite a few water adventure firms operate in Hanalei, and you can set up an excursion in advance.

WHERE TO EAT: For location, the Hanalei Dolphin Center is the choice; it's right on the banks of the river, and you can sit outside at umbrella tables or on a breezy deck. The food — seafood is the specialty — wasn't particularly special, but we enjoyed the atmosphere. Across the street, Postcards Café has long been a Hanalei favorite; it's open only for dinner, however, serving seafood with a fresh, natural focus. We were sorry we weren't able to try the cleverly named Bara Cuda in Hanalei Center; the smells coming out of the kitchen were more than enticing, and there were beautiful breads cooling on a rack by the kitchen door. Be aware that everything's pretty pricey because it's a tourist destination.

WHERE TO STAY: Princeville, just up the hill, offers every level of accommodation, from run-down condos to luxury hotel rooms. In Hanalei are many vacation rental homes.

INFORMATION: www.gohawaii.com/kauai

Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.