Hilo, a town whose name was once invariably preceded by the word "sleepy" (or "rainy"), today has achieved an enviable balance.

While the pace is still slow, and the town not overbuilt, there are numerous attractions and — most important — good restaurants.

During a recent long weekend, my husband and I checked out several.

We stayed for the first time at the Shipman House, a bed-and-breakfast inn housed in an early 20th-century mansion. Because of the kitchen smarts of innkeeper Barbara Ann Andersen, Shipman House is itself a worthy foodie destination.

Not only does Andersen provide guests with dining recommendations, she masterminds a veranda breakfast spread each morning. There is always something fresh-baked (Portuguese sweet bread, banana-nut muffins and so on) and a platter of jewel-bright fresh (mostly home-grown) fruit that invariably has the tourists drawing out their cameras.

Regulars look forward to her signature creations: housemade mac-nut granola and liliko'i butter. Andersen introduced us to a breakfast twist that she said Japanese guests invariably react to with doubt — and then love: hard-boiled eggs topped with furikake. She plans a Shipman House cookbook, and it will be one worth seeking out.

Shipman House bed and breakfast inn: 131 Ka'iulani St., Hilo; 808-934-8002.

THAI TIME

SOMBAT'S FRESH THAI CUISINE

Rating: Three and a half forks out of five (Good to very good)

Weekday lunch (takeout available), dinner Monday-Saturday (dine-in only)

88 Kanoelehua Ave. (off main drag from airport to town; parking at rear)

808-969-9336; www.sombats.com

No liquor license

Andersen suggested we try Sombat's Fresh Thai Cuisine, where owner Sombat Saenguthai's love of entertaining is evident in the decor of bright textiles and thriving plants, the smiles and greetings of the staff and in the sprightly flavors of the dishes, made with herbs she grows.

We had been indulging in Hilo treats (Big Island Candies — and cookies — and Baker Tom's malassadas in Papa'ikou) and were ready for something with crunch and nutritional value, so started with larb gai (chicken salad; 9.95). Mint, Thai basil, chilies, lime juice, fish sauce, green onion, red onion, shredded cabbage and ground chicken sing a delicious song, one in which each voice is distinct while still creating harmony.

An appetizer of fried tofu ($7.95) was not so good for you, and not quite what I'd hoped. I'd pictured largish chunks of tofu, crisp exterior contrasting with creamy centers, but these were small, super-crunchy and offered not much flavor. We loved the sweet-sour peanut sauce, though.

I recently discovered pad prik king (green beans in a red curry sauce stir-fry; sometimes with meat) and have been comparing different versions, so we chose one with pork ($10.95), accompanied by sticky rice ($1.50 in a cylindrical basket, plenty for two). Best I've had.

Sombat's four degrees of spicyness go up to Thai hot; we chose medium, which proved to be just on the pleasant edge of too much: spicy enough to cause brief lip numbness, but mild enough to pass quickly.

GONE FISHIN'

SEASIDE RESTAURANT AND AQUA FARM

Rating: Four forks out of five (Very good)

Dinner only

1790 Kalaniana'ole Ave.

808-935-8825; www.seasiderestaurant.com

Reservations recommended

It had been years since I'd visited Seaside Restaurant and Aqua Farm in Kea'au, southeast of Hilo. I couldn't wait to introduce my fish-loving husband to this third-generation restaurant, comfy as an old rubbah slippah with foot grooves worn in it.

As we ventured on to country-dark, two-lane Kalaniana'ole, out of reach of Hilo's city lights, I told him the story: how the Nakagawa family bought the oceanfront restaurant in the 1920s and ran it successfully until it was destroyed by a tsunami. They rebuilt across the way on an inlet where they raise seven kinds of fish, some in the tidal waters, some in floating pens.

There were years of struggle, with family members working two jobs while tending the restaurant and farm, but Seaside has now achieved beloved status with locals and guidebook must-go kudos from out-of-town critics.

Third-generation chef Colin Nakagawa is in the kitchen. His retired dad is the one waving you into the parking lot with the flashlight, their faithful dog at his side. (You can't see the ponds at night, so consider going as service starts at 5 p.m.)

The meals are portioned for local appetites and come with salad, starch and vegetables. Prices are more than reasonable (two appetizers, two entree spreads and a beer came to less than $90; entree range is $16.95 to $27.95). We started with steamed Manila clams with tomato, onion and spinach for him and fried calamari strips for me (eyes bigger than stomach).

Seaside offers whole fish two ways (with lemon and onion or with Chinese hot oil) and choices that night were 'opakapaka, moi or mullet. At the suggestion of our helpful waiter, I chose moi. After a large green salad (papaya seed or ranch dressings), my husband savored his whole, deep-fried aholehole down to the bones and eyeballs, helped me eat half of one whole moi, and we still took an entire moi back to the inn. Sooo 'ono!

OLD RELIABLE

CAFÉ PESTO

Rating: Four forks out of five (Very good)

Lunch and dinner daily

The historic S. Hata Building, Downtown Hilo across from the bay

808-969-6640, or Kawaihae, 808-882-1071; www.cafepesto.com

Full bar

If there's a line at a restaurant, I usually keep walking, but we cheerfully waited 45 minutes to have a late weekend lunch at Café Pesto because a), its quality never varies, and b) I had visions in my head of my favorite, mushroom risotto with chicken breast ($11.95).

Our patience was rewarded with a basket of excellent hot bread, and a first course of an appetizing blue caesar salad ($6.95-$9.95, depending on size), with greens whose freshness was revealed in their sweetness and crispness, served with chunks of pungent Gorgonzola cheese and salty anchovy croutons. I came to my caloric senses and ordered the calzone Hakalau instead of risotto — a hot kalua turkey and wilted spinach sandwich ($8.95) — mostly for the poha-mango chutney (it was just as interesting to eat). Husband went with the calzone Onomea ($11.95) — grilled fish, sweet peppers and a yummy snow pea salad. We left sated and happy.

Also recommended by Andersen: