Posted on: Friday, February 16, 2007
THE NIGHT STUFF
Your guide to Morton's inventive new martinis
By Derek Paiva
Advertiser Entertainment Writer
The steakhouse takes you far — way far — beyond the orthodox
My favorite martini is the only one that can actually be called a martini.
The classic recipe. The vintage cocktail that according to master mixologist Dale DeGroff — who first gave me the above bit of helpful advice — contains French vermouth, gin or vodka, a pitted pimento-free olive or lemon-peel garnish and just that. Stirred, not shaken.
The hundreds of colorful fruit-, spirit-, chocolate- or whatever-infused concoctions spawned by the "martini madness" movement in recent years? Even the tastiest and most inventive are mere cocktails — their only connection to the original being the conical, elegantly sexy, long-stemmed glass they are often delivered in.
Still, when Morton's The Steakhouse announced the addition of a quartet of so-called Heavenly Mortinis to its bar menu a couple of months back, I took notice. With its "Mortini" moniker trademarked and more than 56 variations on the original cocktail offered, the Chicago-based restaurant chain takes its martini love seriously.
Crafted by Las Vegas-based master mixologist Francesco Lafranconi (who dreamed up the tasty and inventive freshingredient-infused cocktail menu at Pearl) and Morton's vice president of wine and spirits Tylor Field, the Heavenly Mortini collection inspired great expectations. Here's how each delivered.
The "Heavenly" collection: The Heavenly Palm Beacher, Pomegranate Mortini, The Heavenly Cosmopolitan, The Heavenly Margarita
Where and when can I get one? Morton's The Steakhouse, Ala Moana Center, 4:45-11 p.m. daily, 949-1300.
What makes each a Heavenly Mortini? A "frappe-style" Grand Marnier- and passion-fruit-infused foam dispensed as a thick float over the finished martini.
What's in the foam? Grand Marnier, passion-fruit puree and sweet and sour mixed with whipped egg whites and lime juice. The concoction is placed in a whipped-cream canister and air pressurized.
How does the foam affect the cocktail? Taken in alone, the foam offers a rich fragrance and light citrus tartness. Sipped together, however, the contrasting flavors of the foam float and alcohol goodness below ideally combine to complement each other.
Why no swizzle stick or fruit stirrer? Ideally, you shouldn't have to mix one of these. Gravity pulls the foam down to blend flavors naturally. The result is flavor that remains robust, fresh and complex till the last drop. Plus, with its cloudlike float of foam above and vibrantly colored liquid blend below, it's a cocktail that looks best unmixed.
Pomegranate Mortini verdict. Pomegranate is the cocktail world's current "so-in-it-hurts" ingredient. Here, tangy pomegranate syrup and passion-fruit puree blend terrifically with the foam's fresh tartness. Absolut vodka gives it a smooth kick. Refreshingly acidic with a very subtle hint of sweet. 3 1/2 (out of four) stars.
The Heavenly Palm Beacher verdict. Vodka infused for a week with fresh Maui pineapple slices and mint, shaken over ice then served, offers up a vibrant flavor capturing the fruit's natural acidity. Worked wonders with the foam's tang but could've used a touch of sweet as balance. 3 (out of four) stars.
The Heavenly Cosmopolitan verdict. My partner in Night Stuff and resident cosmopolitan expert called it one of the best she's ever had. Fresh lime juice kept the cranberry juice-infused cocktail properly opaque and not overly sweet. Ketel One vodka made its alcohol kick smooth. The foam's tasty Grand Marnier infusion combined with other ingredients best here. 4 (out of four) stars.
The Heavenly Margarita verdict. Shaken instead of blended, rimmed with crushed rock salt and rich with the foam's fresh lime flavor and still more fresh lime, this beats your average cantina margarita like a poorly constructed pinata. Pairing the orange bite of Cointreau with premium tequila is classy. Take a sip, then a lick of salt. 4 (out of four) stars.
They'll cost ya: $12 each. But these are big cocktails! Pours are generous — at least double the size of your average nightclub martini. So consuming one has the effect of delivering two.
Other Mortinis: Though not part of the "Heavenly" quartet, Morton's Mortini menu includes a Pistachio Mochatini, Pomegranate Mojitini, Espressotini, Cadillac Margarita, Key Lime Pie, Appletini and Bourbon Manhattan from $9.25 to $14.50 each.
Happy hour bonus: Gratis mini filet-mignon sandwiches, served from 5 to 7 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. Should you need more substantial sustenance, Morton's entire food menu is served in the bar.
"A Heavenly Evening": Taste all four Heavenly Mortinis, craft some foam and sample Morton's appetizers, from 6 to 7:30 p.m. Feb. 23. Cost is $35. Call 949-1300 for reservations.
Reach Derek Paiva at dpaiva@honoluluadvertiser.com.
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