For saimin: Slurp the Sumo Saimin, a gargantuan creation, at MAC 24-7, at the Hilton Waikiki Prince Kuhio hotel. 921-5564.

For cream puffs: The oddly named Beard Papa's, a Japanese custard delight (original, chocolate, green tea and other specialty flavors), at several locations, including Waikiki Beach Walk, Ewa Town Center, Hawai'i Kai Foodland and Salt Lake Shopping Center.

For beggar's chicken: A literal "hit" is this baked-in-clay poultry (wrapped in lotus leaves), which you can bust open yourself with a mallet, at the Golden Dragon, Hilton Hawaiian Village, 2005 Kalia Road. Order in advance: 949-4321.

For upscale meat loaf: Just like Grandma's, Roy Yamaguchi's version (appetizer and entree portions) is scrumptious comfort food, at Roy's Restaurant, 6600 Kalaniana'ole Highway. 396-7697. Sorry, it's not on the menu at at Roy's Waikiki, Waikiki Beach Walk.

For popovers: Light and airy, popovers are popular with soup or salad at Mariposa, inside Neiman Marcus at Ala Moana Center, 951-3420; or at Sunday brunch at Orchids at the Halekulani hotel, 2199 Kalia Road, 923-2311.

For steak like you can't get at home: The petit filet, rib-eye and bone-in T-bone at Ruth's Chris Steak House are prepared in a 1,800-degree oven and served on 500-degree heated plates (warning: keep fingers off the plate), at the new Ruth's Chris at Waikiki Beach Walk, 226 Lewers St. 440-7910. And at Restaurant Row, 599-3860.

For organics: The contemporary fare — such as grass-fed beef steaks and mussels in Cinzano broth — is healthy (and the crowd arty) at Town, 3435 Wai'alae Ave. 735-5900.

For kim chee steak: Kevin Hanney's kim chee steak is blissful, not fiery, at 12th Avenue Grill, 1145C 12th Ave. 732-9469.

Portabello burgers: Take-out portabello burgers, a Kelvin Ro classic, are sumptuous, at Diamond Head Market & Grill, 3158 Monsarrat Ave. 732-0077.

For 'ahi katsu: Russell Siu's 'ahi katsu is a smart catch every day, at 3660 On The Rise, 3660 Wai'alae Ave. 737-1177.

For pork chops: Colin Nishida's pork chops, with fried rice, define home-style cooking, at Side Street Inn, 1225 Hopaka St. 591-0253.