Dr. Gregory Bays Brown is a pioneer in the booming skin-care industry — a plastic surgeon and biotechnology researcher known for his innovative approach to using medical research to create products said to reverse the aging of skin. He makes his first Hawai'i appearance this week at Neiman Marcus at Ala Moana, and answered five questions about skin care by e-mail.

While treating burn patients, Brown discovered that a naturally occurring protein dubbed Epidermal Growth Factor could accelerate the skin's healing. He believed it could be used to regenerate aging or sun-damaged skin, and patented the 1986 Nobel-prize-winning technology for cosmetic use. In 1997 he founded RéVive, a technologically advanced skin-care line.

Last fall, RéVive introduced Peau Magnifique, a high-tech treatment employing telomerase, introducing stem-cell research to skin care. Even with Peau Magnifique's daunting price tag ($1,500 for a month's supply, to be used twice a year, at an annual cost of $3,000), there is a waiting list for the product in Hawai'i.

Brown's advice on skin care:

Q. There's a lot of talk about skin care and nutrition. Some physicians advocate giving up sugar, while others decry carbs. Supplements such as calcium and vitamin C are subjects for discussion. What's your opinion?

A. I think supplements are such an uncontrolled "black box" that a well-balanced diet is all one needs. In fact, (on May 17) a large study came out showing that daily multivitamins can increase the risk of prostate cancer in men. I think a low glycemic index diet, with lots of fresh fruits and vegetables, is all anyone needs, and we should probably shy away from supplements.

Q. What constitutes a good sunscreen?

A. We believe particulate sun blocks are the best, i.e. micronized titanium or zinc oxide, because they can leave a "dusting" appearance. I believe a combination of Parsol and the particulates offers the best protection for A and B rays.

Q. I understand that Peau Magnifique utilizes stem-cell science through an ingredient called telomerase. Can you explain what telomerase is?

A. Telomerase can signal resting adult stem cells to convert into newly minted skin cells. These stem cells are the body's natural reserve. In anticipation of injury, noxious stimuli also signal stem cells to convert to new skin. The reason ablative and traumatic procedures such as laser, dermabrasion and peels bring about a new and improved aesthetic result is because the "controlled trauma" of these procedures signals the stem cells to convert to new skin; telomerase does this without the trauma and the attendant risk of those procedures.

Q. What is your take on Botox and Restylane?

A. I think Botox and Restylane are both fine for what they're designed to do, i.e., short-term improvements of the stigmata of aging. They are not long-term solutions in any stretch of the imagination.

Q. What do you see as the next frontier in skin care?

A. I think the next frontiers will be delivery systems to get the molecules we now possess to more targeted sites of aging.

Reach Paula Rath at paularath@aol.com.