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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, November 28, 2007

TASTE
Beer pumps up flavor in range of local recipes

 •  Cheers beer to cooking with

By Wanda A. Adams
Advertiser Food Editor

When she embarked on the recipes chapter for "The Hawai'i Beer Book," writer Cheryl Chee Tsutsumi was amazed at the variety she found.

We usually think of beer as figuring in hearty winter dishes, such as soups and stews, but Tsutsumi learned that beer can lend flavor notes to lighter foods such as salad dressings or find its way into local foods such as fried rice.

This vinaigrette is from Patrick Saito, chef de cuisine of Hawaii Calls at Waikoloa Beach Marriott Resort & Spa.

ARUGULA AND PEAR SALAD WITH HONEY DRESSING

  • 3 cups baby arugula (or a mixture of greens, being sure to include some bitter greens)

  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced onion

  • 1/2 cup thinly sliced yellow bell pepper

  • 4 tablespoons honey dressing (recipe follows)

  • 2 Asian pears (no need to peel)

  • 1 tablespoon crumbled blue cheese or other cheese, as desired

    In a medium bowl, combine arugula, onions and bell peppers. Drizzle dressing over. Toss. Divide onto four plates. Arrange pears on top and scatter crumbled cheese over.

    Makes 4 servings.

  • Per serving: (salad plus dressing): 130 calories, 9 g fat, no saturated fat, no cholesterol, 35 mg sodium, 14 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 9 g sugar, 2 g protein

    HONEY DRESSING

  • 2 cups peanut oil

  • 1/2 cup honey

  • 1/4 cup lime juice

  • 1/4 cup lager of your choice

  • 1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

  • 1/8 cup white sugar

    Blend in blender 30 seconds or whisk until incorporated.

  • Per 2-tablespoon serving: 160 calories, 15 g fat, 2.5 g saturated fat, no cholesterol, no sodium, 7 g carbohydrate, no fiber, 6 g sugar, no protein

    This shortcut recipe from the collection of Romi Chapman of Kahala makes use of canned chicken broth and potato soup and can be made ahead of time.

    BEER AND CHEESE CHOWDER

  • 1/2 cup butter

  • 1/2 cup finely diced carrots

  • 1/2 cup finely diced celery

  • 1/2 cup flour

  • 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

  • Salt to taste

  • 5 cups chicken broth

  • 1 (10-ounce) can of potato soup

  • 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

  • 1/2 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese

  • Chopped parsley, chives and pepper to taste

  • 11 ounces flat beer (larger or your choice)

  • White pepper to taste

    In large kettle over low heat, melt butter; let it froth but not brown. Add vegetables and saute until tender. Gradually blend in flour, turning heat down slightly and stirring. Add mustard and salt. Cook until mixture begins to brown. Add chicken broth, stirring, cover and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. Add potato soup and bring mixture to a gentle boil. Add cheese, parsley, chives and pepper, tasting to check flavors. Soup may be held at this point; keep warm or refrigerate and re-heat. Add beer and broil to a boil for a moment, taste and correct seasonings; reduce heat and serve.

    Makes 4 to 6 servings.

  • Per serving (4 servings): 430 calories, 30 g fat, 18 g saturated fat, 85 mg cholesterol, greater than 2,000 mg sodium, 27 g carbohydrate, 2 g fiber, 4 g sugar, 9 g protein

    The intriguing name refers to the Hawaiian word for the reddish-brown color that characterizes this meltingly tender dish from chef Aurelio Garcia of Sam Choy's Breakfast, Lunch & Crab. These kinds of recipes are often great when made a day ahead, which also allows you to chill the ribs and skim off fat.

    EHU-BRAISED SHORT RIBS

  • 1/2 cup salad oil

  • 5 pounds short ribs, cut into large cubes

  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

  • 1/2 cup flour

  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic

  • 1 cup tomato paste

  • 2 cups chopped tomato

  • 2 cups beef stock or broth

  • 2 cups Sam Choy's Big Aloha Brewery Ehu Ale

  • 1/2 cup minced onion

  • 1/2 cup minced celery

  • 1/2 tablespoon minced thyme

  • 1/2 tablespoon minced rosemary

    Preheat a medium pot with salad oil. Season beef with salt and pepper. Dredge with flour and brown on all sides. Add garlic and cook until golden brown. Turn heat to low and slowly stir in tomato paste. Cook for five minutes. Add remaining ingredients and bring to a boil. Cover the pot and simmer. Continue to braise for 2 1/2 hours or until very tender. Skim off extra fat if necessary. If desired, season with additional salt and pepper.

    Serves 4 to 6.

  • Per serving (4 servings): 850 calories, 50 g fat, 12 g saturated fat, 135 mg cholesterol, 900 mg sodium, 37 g carbohydrate, 5 g fiber, 12 g sugar, 53 g protein

    This unconventional use of beer comes from Laurel Leslie, chef-instructor at the University of Hawai'i-Manoa.

    MISO CHICKEN

  • 5 pounds boneless chicken thighs

  • 3/4 cup shoyu

  • 3/4 cup sugar

  • 3/4 cup white miso

  • 3/4 cup beer (lager or other type)

    Combine ingredients and marinate overnight. Broil, basting with marinade, until chicken is no longer pink inside OR bake in marinade at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes until done but still tender.

    Serves 6 to 8.

  • Per serving (6 servings, not including salt to taste): 990 calories, 58 g fat, 17 g saturated fat, 320 mg cholesterol, greater than 3,000 mg sodium, 40 g carbohydrate, 6 g fiber, 32 g sugar, 75 g protein

    Beer is a natural partner with doughs and batters where we expect a yeasty flavor. Bev Gannon of Hali'imaile General Store came up with this idea — one worthy of someone with Texas roots. You can use this same batter for onion rings. Grapeseed oil is used because it has a high smoke point; if you can't find it, you can use all canola oil.

    BEER-BATTERED APPLE FRITTERS

  • Ginger sugar (1 cup sugar; 1 tablespoon powdered ginger)

  • 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

  • 2 tablespoons sugar

  • 12 ounces amber ale (your choice)

  • 1 teaspoon vanilla

  • 2 tablespoons butter, melted

  • 8 large Granny Smith apples

  • 1/2 cup grapeseed oil

  • 2 cups canola oil

  • 2 cups pineapple/apricot preserves, warmed

    Make ginger sugar: Mix sugar and ginger in a jar, cover and allow to infuse overnight.

    In a large bowl, whisk together flour and 2 tablespoons sugar. Whisk in beer, then vanilla and melted butter. Set aside.

    Peel and core apples. Slice into 1/3-inch thick rings.

    In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oils over medium-high heat to 375 degrees. Dip apple rings into batter, coating evenly. Fry rings in small batches, turning once until golden brown. Remove to paper towel-covered plate. Sprinkle with ginger sugar and drizzle with preserves.

    Serves 10 to 12.

  • Per serving (10 servings): 700 calories, 36 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 5 mg cholesterol, 20 mg sodium, 94 g carbohydrate, 3 g fiber, 72 g sugar, 3 g protein

    Reach Wanda A. Adams at wadams@honoluluadvertiser.com.