RAISE A GLASS
Don't wait until December; pick holiday wines now
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By Kim Karalovich
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Don't be tricked this October by waiting until December for the issue of Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines of The Year to look for great wines to enjoy during the holidays. Instead, shop early and seek advice from your local wine buyer at your favorite wine store.
There are so many wines on the market that many consumers become confused and uncertain how to shop for wine. A trend showing a tremendous spike in sales indicates that consumers are shopping for wines based solely on ratings and scores listed in wine publications. I don't believe this is a positive trend. Just because a wine has a great score does not ensure that you will enjoy it. The wine rater is scoring the wine based on their taste, not yours. Also, be careful of shelf takers in grocery and warehouse stores that show high scores, because more than likely the rating is referring to the previous vintage, not the one you are about to buy.
Ratings can also make a wine vanish quickly from wine stores. Highly rated wines (90 points and above, based on a 100 point scale) will be gone from the shelves before you get the current vintage rating from publications such as the Wine Spectator, The Wine Advocate or Wine Enthusiast. Your chances are even slimmer in finding wines rated in the top 10 of the Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines of The Year issue released in December.
The reason why rated wines will be gone before you read about them is because wholesale wine buyers like myself can easily predict before the publication is released, which wines will be highly rated based on the taste profile of the wine, our knowledge of the winemaker and where the grapes are sourced from, and the fact that we know the palate and taste preferences of the raters (for example James Laube or Robert Parker).
I regret when my favorite wines get high ratings because then demand will drastically increase and so will the price. The price will go up 99 percent of the time because of the demand, and not because of quality. For example, Joseph Phelps Insignia 2002 was rated Top Wine of the year according to Wine Spectator in 2003 and went from $140 to $190 to $220 a bottle in just two vintages. Very rarely will you find a California winery able to charge more than $200 for a bottle of wine without the wine receiving high scores for previous vintages. If you think $200 a bottle is a lot to spend for a bottle of California red wine I agree; however, Joseph Phelps Insignia 2004 (94 points W.S.) only arrived to the Island a few weeks ago, and already I'm almost sold out.
October marks the shipping of many great new wines to Hawai'i from wineries around the world. By the end of the month, most of the valued new vintages, as well as highly allocated and rated wines will be here for the holidays, yet many will be gone before festivities begin. Juan Gill 2005 ($16.99) is one that arrived this month that scored 90 points last year by Robert Parker. This vintage is not yet rated, and when the score is released, it will be gone from the shelves.
I know this because I have already tasted it, and I am telling my customers about it and, yes, I do predict it will score at least 90 again by Parker.
That is why it is best to shop for wine at a wine shop where the wine buyer is available for questions, knows your taste and understands exactly what you are looking for in a wine. Sure, sometimes it is just easier to shop based on scores or shelf takers, but imagine being able to speak directly to a wine buyer who can give you the inside scoop. Be careful of someone who makes a recommendation to you without having any idea of what you like because taste is very subjective.
So don't get tricked this October by waiting for the ratings to come out; consult your local wine store now where the buyer is readily available to tell you what's new and exciting. If scores are important, then let them know so they can lead you in the right direction. If you want my specific recommendation based on your taste preference or on points, well, you know where to find me.
Happy Halloween, and cheers!
Kim Karalovich and Liane Fu own The Wine Stop. Reach them at www.thewinestophawaii.com or 946-3707.