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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Sunday, August 3, 2008

Cape Disappointment will please nature lovers

By Tim Hubbard
Los Angeles Times

WHERE: Cape Disappointment State Park, Washington state.

Long ago dubbed the "Graveyard of the Pacific," this stretch of ocean has struck fear into the hearts of many sailors.

Over the years, nearly 2,000 boats have gurgled to saltwater oblivion and 700 sailors have met their maker near the mouth of the Columbia River. Washington's Cape Disappointment State Park lies at the bottom of Long Beach Peninsula, extending from its southern end into the maw of the river.

The ever-shifting sandbar played havoc with vessels trying to navigate in a pre-GPS world. Even the first attempt to build Cape Disappointment Lighthouse in 1853 ended in disaster when the ship carrying the building materials foundered directly below the cape.

Eventually two lighthouses — Cape Disappointment and North Head — were built, two miles apart, to help those at sea.

WHAT TO DO: The 1,882-acre park has plentiful camping, with 250 sites that include yurts and vacation-home rentals, plus six miles of beautiful hiking trails rich in history.

The cape was named by British Capt. John Meares in 1788 after his failure to find the mouth of the Columbia. Visitors can walk in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark, who caught their first glimpse of the Pacific Ocean on Nov. 15, 1805.

WHERE TO STAY: A short walk from the lighthouses are two lightkeepers' residences. Each home can accommodate up to six guests. Rates begin at $229 per night. www.capedisappointment.org.