To cook with Franklin Fung Chow in his small apartment kitchen is to understand the economy of effort that is required to make a fine, simple Chinese dish. The Washington resident, 72, has taught basic Chinese cooking techniques for almost 30 years.

Like any accomplished, instinctive cook, Chow is hard-pressed to offer precise ingredient amounts for his cashew chicken. But during a private session, his low-key tutorial fills in the gaps: "You must start with a sharp knife," he says, or, in his case, a compact, immaculate Chinese cleaver. "A wok's not important — and sometimes it's too big to allow cooking on other burners, anyway." (That explains the well-seasoned cast-iron skillet on the left front burner.)

The main elements — chicken, nuts and vegetables — can be replaced with a variety of other ingredients (but not tomatoes or potatoes; too watery for stir-fry, he says). Try not to overcook anything. Add the cashews off the heat, to preserve their crunch.

A circa-1971 rice cooker bubbles away while his dish comes together. Chow likes to toss in several thin slices of dried Chinese sausage for flavor; using chicken broth instead of water adds even more depth to the rice, he says.

In minutes, he brings the main dish and steamed rice to the table, pours tea and unravels stories of the grand Chinese Lunar New Year parades in his native San Francisco. "My students ask me, 'What makes your food taste different from what I can get at my neighborhood Chinese restaurant?' I say, 'Learn the basics. Your food will always taste better.' " All in all, a good lesson for the Year of the Rat.

CASHEW CHICKEN