Dispelling Wine Myths: Part 2 of two parts. (To see Part 1, go to www.honoluluadvertiser.com, and click on back issues, March 12.)

Some more ideas about wine that aren't quite accurate, but widely believed:

'LEGS' IN YOUR GLASS INDICATE HIGH QUALITY

When you swirl wine in your glass and you see the streams along the side, someone at the table will probably comment that the wine has great "legs" and that this represents some sort of high quality. Actually, the "legs" are just the alcohol evaporating and the remaining liquid flowing back down the sides of the glass.

Verdict: Legs indicate high alcohol content, not high quality.

WINE THAT SAYS 'RESERVE' ON THE BOTTLE IS BETTER

If you are enjoying an Italian or Spanish wine, this may be the case. The wines from these countries may have been held back in barrel longer as regulated by law. But if the wine you are drinking comes from one of many other wine regions, including the USA, the word "reserve" may be used by anyone without having to comply to any standards at all.

Verdict: Depends on where the wine is from.

DECANTING IS ALWAYS THE BEST IDEA

I love to decant! There, I admitted it. I decant everything, sometimes even older white wines. Decanting opens up younger wines by letting the air mix with the wine, speeding up the process that would take years with a cork in the bottle. Wines that are older can sometimes "throw sediment." Older wines should be placed upright for a while to let the sediment settle down to the bottom, then slowly poured into the decanter with a light source at the neck of the bottle so your server can see when it reaches the shoulder and prevent it from ending up in your glass.

Fortunately, with today's techniques in winemaking and filtration, you do not see as many bottles that have sediment. That being said — if I had a trophy bottle of, say, 1945 Leoville las Cases that has been lovingly aged and brought out on a special evening — I think I would stand that bottle upright for a few hours before opening and let that old wine sit in that position the rest of the evening, only pouring a glass as needed.

Verdict: Decant almost everything, but let the old guys rest.

VINTAGE MATTERS

In my profession I hear a lot of people go on and on about this being a good year in this region or that. Just look at the prices being paid for 2005 French wines — they are off the charts! But even while most people were waxing poetic about the great Napa vintage of 1997, I was on a hunt for some outstanding 1998 wines, a year that critics universally panned. I have found that even in so-called bad years you can usually find a winery and a winemaker that have produced a superb wine.

Verdict: Save your money and seek out good wines in even "poor" vintage years.

PINK IS FOR SISSIES

Not very long ago pink wine was equated with a sweet-style, starter wine for the unsophisticated crowd. But there have always been serious roses produced in the Provence region in the south of France as well as other highly regarded wine regions. Rose obtains its beautiful pink hue from some short contact with the grapes' skins. I have tasted fine rose made from many varietals such as grenache, syrah, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. This is a perfect wine for our cuisine in Hawai'i; it is light enough to go with almost any fare and the fact that it is enjoyed chilled, makes it a great alternative to boring whites or heavy reds.

Verdict: Hold your glass of rose high and proud!

SPECIALTY GLASSWARE MAKES A DIFFERENCE

Years ago I had the pleasure of meeting Georg Riedel and tasted wines side by side, first in Riedel glassware and then in a regular glass. I went in a skeptic, but left thinking of how many bottles of wine I had not enjoyed to their fullest and how an investment in the right glasses can make every wine (even inexpensive wine) taste so much better. If you, too, are a skeptic, I invite you to see for yourself at a tasting being held at Neiman Marcus at Ala Moana, where I work. For the price of just three sommelier series glasses, you will be guided through the tasting with Riedel representative Thomas Lehman. Light pupu will be served afterward, and the glasses will be yours to keep — a $318 value.

The event is 3 p.m. June 28, Mariposa Restaurant, third floor, Neiman Marcus. Space is limited and reservations are required; $295 plus tax, 951-3420.