Turkey Day troubles — we've all got 'em, or we're going to have 'em in the next 24 hours.

Here's help.

Q. What's all this about brining the bird?

A. Worth knowing. Immersing foods in salted water is called brining. Brining causes the proteins in meat to untangle, which in turn promotes retention of the meat's natural moisture so turkey doesn't dry out. Brines may contain herbs or spices as well as salt and sugar, but the primary purpose is keeping meat moist. If the turkey is fully defrosted, brine it tonight. You need 1/2 cup each kosher salt and sugar for every gallon of water, and a large enough container to fully immerse the turkey — a stock pot, a clean bucket, garbage can or cooler (line with large garbage bag). Stir together salt, sugar and water; immerse defrosted turkey overnight. Use ice or ice packs to keep turkey cold or place in refrigerator (good luck finding room). Early tomorrow morning, rinse turkey, pat dry and place in refrigerator for a few hours; air-drying it causes the skin to contract for crisp texture. Roast as usual.

Q. How do I defrost this thing?

A. We warned you about this a couple of weeks ago! If the turkey is frozen solid, you're probably too late, but try this: place the still-wrapped turkey in the clean, plugged kitchen sink. Run lukewarm water over it. Every half hour, drain water and again immerse it in lukewarm water. This should take all night; set the alarm.

Q. How do I roast it?

A. Oh, dear, we have to remind you every year, don't we? Though there are a half-dozen ways to cook a turkey (moderate heat, high heat, barbecue, imu, deep-fry, in the bag, etc.), we prefer the conventional route.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Rinse the fully defrosted turkey in cold water. Pat dry. Rub it with soft butter or oil, salt and pepper it, stuff it or throw a quartered apple, a quartered onion, a bunch of parsley and a quartered lemon inside. Loosely sew or skewer neck and rear. Wrap the wingtips in foil to prevent burning. Truss (tie with string) to create a compact package. Place on a V-shaped baking rack or on oven rack, breast side down.

Place turkey in oven for 10 minutes, then turn heat down to 325 degrees. Roast one hour. Turn breast side up; baste with pan juices or melted butter or broth. Continue roasting until the thickest part of the thigh registers 165 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Time varies with size; figure 15 to 20 minutes per pound. Remove the turkey to a cutting board or heat-proof surface. Tent with heavy aluminum foil. If you need to hold the turkey for a while, drape it in blankets or heavy towels. Otherwise, let it sit in the tent for 15 to 30 minutes so juices can sink back into the meat (and you can finish cooking everything else). Carve and serve. You're welcome.

Q. Is there any way to speed this up?

A. Yes, Gourmet magazine this month features the high-heat roasting method pioneered by author Barbara Kafka some years ago. Have your fully defrosted 10- to 12-pound turkey washed and dried 3 1/2 hours before dinner. Place it on the counter for one hour to come to room temperature; rub with soft butter, salt and pepper. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place the turkey in an inexpensive metal pan, such as a disposable supermarket oval roaster so it will both roast and braise the meat. Place cover on roaster or cover with cooking parchment and heavy foil wrap, tightly sealed. Roast 1 hour. Baste with pan juices and roast 30 minutes. Baste with melted butter, uncover and roast 15 more minutes. Remove turkey from oven and allow to rest, still covered, 30 minutes.

Q. Should I stuff?

A. Most experts say no: It slows the cooking down and can lead to food poisoning. Also, stuffing the stuffing (if you see what we mean) mashes it into an overly heavy gutball. Instead, cook dressing in a casserole dish, covered or uncovered, as you prefer. Or prepare on stove if oven space is an issue; just keep lightly turning and tossing and drizzling broth or other liquid in so the bottom doesn't burn.

Q. Anything new in side dishes?

A. There's always something new, but will your family stand for it? Ideas: Add richness, saltiness, creaminess and crunch to lightly cooked green beans by sauteing them in a little bacon fat with crumbled cooked bacon and roasted chestnut meats. Roast potatoes instead of mashing them. Drizzle root vegetables with a flavored oil, such as walnut or basil oil, and roast. Make quick cranberry sauce by combining fresh cranberries with any any citrus or with pomegranates, raisins, a teaspoon of grated ginger and enough brown sugar to sweeten; cook until cranberries pop and liquid thickens slightly. Start with a squash soup. Make a wild rice or other grain casserole. Drizzle sweet potatoes or yams with real maple syrup instead of brown sugar before baking. Make scalloped potatoes with cheese. (Costco has a pre-made version with asparagus that's very good.) Add meats, nuts, dried fruit, mushrooms or other ingredients to the stuffing. Make a pumpkin cake or pumpkin cheesecake or pumpkin pudding instead of pumpkin pie. (Hint: Go online and use a search engine to find recipes — just plug in a couple of key ingredients and the word "recipe".)

Q. What's that gravy drill again?

A. Gravy is of two types: flour-based, or made by deglazing drippings and reducing them with wine and milk or cream.

Flour gravy has the advantage that you can make a lot of it. Sauces yield less volume but more intense flavor. These are best if made with a very concentrated homemade turkey or chicken broth.