Where to go for eats and omiyage in Hilo (in no particular order):

• Big Island Candies. Extraordinary shortbread and other cookies and housemade chocolates, all gorgeously packaged. 585 Hinano St. (near airport, Civic Center); open 8:30 a.m.-5 p.m. daily year-round.

• Kawamoto Store. Old-style glass-case okazuya (Japanese-style deli); take-out only. 784 Kilauea Ave.; 808-935-8209. 6 a.m.-12:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays, closed Mondays.

• Koji's Bento Korner. Plate lunches range from a teri-chicken breakfast burger to steak grilled to order. Portions are huge, orders come up fast, takeout only. 52 Ponahawai St.; 808-935-1417; 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays.

• Hilo Rice Noodle Restaurant. Unusual combination of Chinese and Vietnamese cuisines, specializing in pho (noodle soups), bun (cold rice noodle), Chinese rice plates. 1990 Kino'ole St.; 808-981-5841; 10 a.m.-9 p.m. weekdays.

• Hilo Lunch Shop. Nori chicken, a Hilo specialty, is the calling card of this Japanese-style deli which, although it's dispensed with the old-style wood-frame display case, otherwise honors tradition in flavors and hours. Get there early; everything's gone by lunch. 421 Kalanikoa St.; 808-935-8273; 5:30 a.m.-1 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays.

• Hilo Bay Cafe. The ONLY disappointing thing about this chic bistro is that it's not actually on a bay. Chef Josh Kenter's food is invariably interesting, with a range from foie gras to exceptional vegetarian dishes. 315 Maka'ala St.; 808-935-4939; lunch and dinner daily.

• Cafe Pesto. This airy, bustling lunch and dinner spot in the historic S. Hata building is a Hilo fixture: great pizza, pasta, risotti, seafood and such, swift, friendly service, reasonable prices. 808-969-6640; lunch and dinner daily.

• Kuhio Grille. The place to go before and after Merrie Monarch for 1-pound laulau and other plate lunch standards; eat in or take out. 111 E. Puanaiko St., Prince Kuhio Plaza; 808-959-2336; 6 a.m.-10 p.m. daily, until midnight on Friday nights.

• Kawate Seed Co. "Seeds" of all kinds, plus universally praised shave ice. 1990 Kino'ole St., Kino'ole Shopping Plaza; 808-959-8313; 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays.

• Two Ladies Kitchen. Handmade gourmet mochi and manju; advance orders recommended. 274 Kilauea Ave.; 808-961-4766; 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays.

• Nori's Saimin & Snacks. Hearty local/Japanese noodle bowls and meals, fresh fish, housemade snacks (try the chocolate mochi or the sweet potato pie). Tough to find in a strip mall perpendicular to the street. 688 Kino'ole St.; 808-935-9133; breakfast, lunch, dinner daily.

• Atebara Potato Chips. Chips in a variety beyond imagining, including sweet potato, shrimp and taro and li hing- and kim chee-flavored styles; also cookies, chocolates. Gourmet Soup, 717 Manono St.; 808-969-9600; 9 a.m.-5 p.m. weekdays, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturdays, closed Sundays.

• Itsu's Fishing Supplies. Stock up on hooks and poles while you wait in line for gravy burgers or buy colored popcorn omiyage. Across Edith Kanaka'ole Stadium; 808-935-8082; lunch, weekdays and Saturdays.

• Seaside Seafood Restaurant & Aquaculture Farm. Third-generation fishpond-restaurant specializes in pulled-from-the-water whole fish several ways. 1790 Kalaniana'ole Ave.; 808-935-8825; dinner from 5 p.m. nightly.

• Don's Grill. Local favorite for generous late lunches, sandwiches, entree salads; rotisserie chicken a specialty. Eat in or take out. 485 Hinano St. (near Civic Auditorium); 808-935-9099; 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays.

• Miyo's. Homestyle Japanese food in a homey environment; everyone tells you to order the fried tofu appetizer, the tempura/sashimi platter and the sesame chicken. 400 Hualani St.; 808-935-2273; 11 a.m.-2 p.m. lunch, 5:30-8:30 p.m. dinner; closed Sundays.

• Cafe 100. The subject of endless debate (Did they invent the loco moco?), the Miyashiro family's restaurant (eat in open-air lanai or take out) is busy night and day. 969 Kilauea Ave.; 808-935-8683; 6:45 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; closed Sundays.

• KTA Superstores. Third-generation family-owned grocery chain stocks impressive array of Big Island-made products. Various locations; largest outlet is at Puainako Town Center off Highway 11.

• Rainbow Falls Connection, Hawai'i County Economic Opportunity Council shop sells a wide variety of lavosh, butter spreads, honey and other good things — a project to teach and encourage self-sufficiency and entrepreneurism. 47 Rainbow Drive (near Rainbow Falls); 800-397-9902.

• Maebo Noodle Factory. It's the trademark One-Ton Chips we go for — super-crispy, sorta sweet, sorta salty — made at this third-generation Hilo institution. Factory: 2036 Kilauea Ave.; 808-959-8763; but chips are in all grocery stores.

• Punalu'u Bake Shop. A far drive from Hilo but worth it for the visitor center's Portuguese sweet bread and other bread styles, lunches, pastries, gifts and souvenirs. The breads are also sold at KTA and other area stores. Highway 11 in Na'alehu town, 808-929-7343; 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

• Cafe Concerto. Recently reopened, this tiny spot offers classic Italian food, widely praised by our scouts. 808 Kilauea Ave.; 808-934-0312; call for hours.

• Jay's Island Tapas. New in town and getting good word of mouth is Jay's (in the former Nichols pub location) serving small plates and large, focused on local products in an Asian/Euro bistro style. 776 Kilauea Ave.; 808-935-8880. Lunch and dinner, liquor license pending.

• Sombat's Fresh Thai Cuisine. Fresh is right: Herbs are owner-grown, condiments and sauces made in-house (her famed Paad Thai Sauce is sold at local stores and in the restaurant). 88 Kanoelehua Ave. (Highway 11), Waiakea Kai Plaza; 808-969-9336; lunch and dinner Mondays-Fridays, dinner only on Saturdays