JUNCTION CITY, Kan. — Call it Army chic.

In a merchandising deal, the patch of the Army's oldest division has gone logo.

A big red "1" against a shield of green — the symbol of the 1st Infantry Division of Fort Riley, Kan. — now adorns clothing in the same manner as Adidas' three stripes and Nike's swoosh.

That marketing move reflects a positive image of the military after years of fighting in Iraq and Afghanistan.

"I see it as a fan thing," said Carolyn Marvin, a scholar of patriotic symbolism at the University of Pennsylvania. "Having a team's jersey doesn't make you a football player, but it signals how you feel about the team."

The fact that an American retailer would see promise in something tied so directly with the military is a sign of the times, Marvin said. In the 1970s, surplus Army jackets were worn in almost ironic protest by people lashing out at the establishment. In those Vietnam and post-Vietnam days, the Army was not a popular institution.

But for the past 20 years, Americans responding to a Gallup survey have consistently rated the military as among their most trusted institutions. (The poll might also explain why no one is rushing to slap a congressional logo on their sweatshirt.)

SEEING RED

Despite that, the Army has struggled to hit its recruiting goals, even as it has lowered standards.

Jerry Newberry, a spokesman for the Veterans of Foreign Wars, said the clothing line might in subliminal ways make the Army seem more appealing. But he said it should include something to indicate to people that the patch isn't randomly militarylike.

"If you're going to sell this stuff," he said, "at least include a cardboard tag with it that explains something about the Big Red One so people understand its contribution to America."

The clothing line is made by All American Apparel (although largely not in the U.S.). It is retailed exclusively at Sears stores, and is available in Hawai'i at the Sears stores at Ala Moana Center and Pearlridge on O'ahu and at Queen Ka'ahumanu Center in Kahului, Maui.

It's called the First Infantry Division Collection, but not all the soldiers it aims to associate with are entirely thrilled about it.

At the Fort Riley, Kan., headquarters of the 1st Infantry Division, the official reaction is pointedly subdued.

"We didn't have anything to do with the decision," said division spokesman Maj. Nathan Bond.

The unit's commander, Brig. Gen. Perry Wiggins, hasn't given his opinion publicly.

Among the rank and file, Bond said, some soldiers say their patch was chosen because "the American people want to be part of a winning team, and we are a winning team." And some, Bond said, think "that if you haven't served in the Big Red One, you shouldn't wear the Big Red One."

BRAND CACHET

Some are ambivalent. "If it's for supporting troops, that's great," said Spc. Nathan Haines. "I just hope it's not misunderstood or misconstrued."

Oscar Moore, a Vietnam veteran and former member of the Big Red One, took offense.

"These guys earned the right to wear that patch," said the 68-year-old from Junction City. "It's not right that somebody can just walk into Sears and buy it."

Sears sees the clothing line as a tribute. It notes that Sears employees called to active military duty continue to draw full pay and benefits, and the company raised $5 million in the past year to remodel the homes of wounded troops.

"We know that that military customer is one of our customers," said Sears spokeswoman Amy Dimond. "We've felt that we've had this opportunity to honor one of the most illustrious units in the Army."

While many civilians might not recognize the unit insignia, it represents the service's oldest division. Formed under the command of Gen. John Pershing in 1917, the 1st Infantry Division has served in every U.S. conflict since World War I with the exception of Korea.

In June 2007, the Army agreed to the merchandising deal, with royalties directed to a program for troops and their families.

The Army also hopes that the merchandising will improve its brand — that being featured on clothes geared to boys and young men and women might increase the military's cachet among those age groups.

"Strong brand identification ... can enhance the Army's recruiting efforts and the public's general good will toward the Army," Army spokesman Paul Boyce said.