honoluluadvertiser.com

Sponsored by:

Comment, blog & share photos

Log in | Become a member
The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, October 15, 2008

TASTE
'Mom' was Sansei's 'hostess with mostest'

 •  Dress up instant ramen

By Bonnie Friedman
Special to The Advertiser

I vividly remember sitting at her dining table, my fingers flying over my laptop keyboard trying not to miss a word she said.

It was before 6 a.m., and already she had a tray of brownies and a cake in the oven and was starting to prepare breakfast. She was sharing family stories — about traditions and food and recipes — which were later included in her son's cookbook. And we were laughing, trying to do so quietly but not quite succeeding.

I do not recall any time spent with her without laughter. This time, though, was special because it was just the two of us. It is my fondest memory of someone with whom I had an instant connection, the kind of connection with which we are blessed only rarely.

We called each other "soul sistah" … and we laughed.

Sunao "Sandy" Kodama's stories and recipes have appeared in these pages, too, more than once since Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar burst onto the culinary scene 12 years ago. (I've been the restaurant publicist for 10 of those years, and that's how I first met Sandy.)

When D.K. Kodama opened his first restaurant in Kapalua, "Mom" Kodama, as she is affectionately known, instantly became a beloved constant.

She was at every event — to work and THEN to socialize — and quickly befriended every chef, cook, server, bartender and manager with whom she came into contact.

When Sansei opened at Restaurant Row in 2000, she was there early every morning with her brownies and her cakes, wearing her chef's coat with the Sansei logo and the words "Executive Mom" embroidered on it, prepping for the evening's crowd … and cooking breakfast for the crew. And in the evening, she'd return — always looking glamorous and gorgeous with her big smile — to flit from table to table.

She was the embodiment of the phrase "the hostess with the mostest."

When the restaurant moved to Waikiki and d.k Steak House opened next door, she happily doubled her routine.

I happen to know there are people who frequented D.K.'s restaurants more to see her and chat for a few moments than to dine. Everyone who has ever worked at the restaurants loved her, and she them.

So her death on Oct. 4 at age 77 is a huge loss. Her family has lost a wife, mother, sister and grandmother. The food-service community has lost its most enthusiastic booster. Many have lost a friend. And I have lost my soul sistah.

Kodama is survived by husband Tamateru; sons Dennis, Scott, Hugh, Dave "D.K." and Gregg; daughter Diane; brothers Nobuyuki and Yoshitomo Okumura; and 12 grandchildren.

Services will be Saturday at Makiki Christian Church on Pensacola Street, with visitation at 3:30 p.m.; service at 5 p.m.