WHERE: Portland, Ore., is not A-listed among the glamour cities, and Portlanders tend not to care if other cities have taller buildings or a bigger this or that, but this unpretentious, eclectic city has lots to offer. Here are five quick hits for visitors.

• The Japanese Garden overlooks the city in Washington Park (adults, $8). A short walk from the Japanese Garden is the world-famous International Rose Test Garden, which is free. Portland is called the Rose City for a reason.

Also in Washington Park is the Oregon Zoo, and the kid-friendly Children's Museum and World Forestry Center; www.portlandonline.com/transportation.

• Powell's City of Books, 1005 W. Burnside, claims to be the world's largest independent used and new bookstore. Entry is free and you even get a map; www.powells.com.

• Local craftsmen show their wares at the Saturday Market near the Burnside Bridge; www.portlandsaturdaymarket.com.

• The Oregon Museum of Science and Industry is hands-on and kid-oriented with its own submarine, the USS Blueback, open for tours, www.omsi.edu, 1945 SE Water Ave. (adults $11, children $9, submarine tours additional $5.50).

• Portland is among the nation's most bike-friendly cities. Rentals: www.portlandonline.com/transportation.

• 'Hoods: Trendy 23rd Street in Northwest Portland has tempting shops, galleries and restaurants. The Haw- thorn district is a bohemian-lite street of coffee houses, hole-in-the-wall restaurants and interesting shops.

WHERE TO EAT: Downtown there's Dan & Louis Oyster Bar, 208 SW Ankeny St., where Portlanders have gone for fresh local seafood since 1907, and Fratelli, 1230 NW Hoyt St., for an interesting take on Italian food.

Carts around downtown serve inexpensive spicy Indian curries, Mexican dishes, Middle East specialties and more.

Portland has about 30 microbreweries. Many give tours and tastings; www.oregon.com/beer/beer.cfm.