TASTE
2 Venetian treats you can bake
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During my second trip to Venice recently, I determined to learn how to prepare some classic Venetian baked goods I enjoyed there, even though I don't speak enough Italian to ask for a recipe. I do understand enough written Italian to read a recipe, and I found several sources of cookbooks in English.
So I realized my goal: to find recipes for the simple cookies called bussola or bussolai. Originally, these cookies were an Easter treat. Housewives would prepare a buttery yeast dough, rolled into fat wreaths, and take it to the neighborhood baker to be baked in professional ovens. Today, they're eaten year-round and made both at home and in bakeries.
Everywhere in Venice, you see these cookies, in wreath or "S" shapes, mounded in glass bakery cases or piled in gift packets. They glow in a buttery yellow which is probably attributable to the orange-yolked fresh eggs available in Venice; they are more pale when made with American ingredients. But they are no less subtly delicious. Dip them in coffee, hot tea or sweet wine, as the Italians do.
BUSSOLAI
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease or oil-spray a cookie sheet. Combine flour and sugar in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to blend. Add the egg yolks and the softened butter and pulse to blend. With the food processor running, pour in vanilla, lemon juice and zest. Process until the dough forms a soft ball; the dough should be gluey, sticky and quite moist. If dough is too dry or gritty when pressed between your fingers, add a few drops of water and continue to process until smooth. Pinch off egg-size pieces of dough and, working lightly, with splayed fingers, on a floured board, roll them into finger-size ropes. Make wreaths or "S" shapes. To make a wreath, cut a finger of dough about 6 inches long and loop it; for S shapes, 4 inches are sufficient. Place the bussolai on prepared cookie sheets about 1/2 inch apart. Bake 15 minutes, until pale golden brown. Cool on rack. Makes about 2 dozen.
Venetian cakes are not usually elaborate: a single layer, filled with fruit and often made with cornmeal in addition to flour. I enjoyed a cake similar to this from a bakery worth seeking out if you're in Venice, Rosa Salva Antica Caffe in Castello, on the Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo.
VENETIAN-STYLE ALMOND CAKE
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease or oil-spray and flour an 8-inch cake pan.
Whisk cornmeal, flour and baking powder together; set aside. In a standing mixer with a paddle attachment, beat butter and almond paste on high until smooth, about 3 minutes. Reduce to low and beat in vanilla extract. Gradually add confectioner's sugar, beating until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape sides, increase speed to high and beat in yolks and whole eggs, one at a time. Scrape bottom and sides. Reduce heat to medium, add sour cream and dry ingredients and mix until incorporated. Pour into prepared pan, smooth with spatula. Scatter with slivered almonds. Bake about 30-35 minutes until golden and pulling away from sides of pan. Cool on wire rack, invert, if desired, and dust with confectioners sugar.
Makes 8 servings.
