Beaches in Hawai'i could almost be categorized by smell. The tourist-covered ones have that pina colada smell of sunscreen. The local favorites smell like teriyaki on the hibachi. The remote, windswept, uncrowded ones smell like salt and limu and that musty scent of fine dust on kiawe beans. Some smell like sewage.

Bellows Beach kind of doesn't smell like anything now. But that's not a bad thing.

Before the military closed the beach park to the public in June, it was being subjected to the kinds of things that ruin so many beaches: trucks plowing down the sand, glowing charcoal embers left to smolder among the ironwood roots, plastic bags blowing up from overflowing trash cans, beer cans strewn about, dogs running loose with not a pooper-scooper in sight.

Closing the beach, setting up parking barriers and reestablishing rules brought the area back.

Bellows was reopened in time for the July Fourth weekend, but with new rules and much more visible enforcement. There is a guard at the guard shack, and uniformed military police cruising through.

The parking barriers to keep people from driving on the beach or parking on tree roots are boulders of varying size; a nice choice to blend in with the area.

The rule about no dogs on the beach is actually being enforced. On Sunday, one rogue terrier hid under a picnic table between some aunties, but even the dog seemed to know she'd better mind her manners.

And get this: The restrooms are clean. Not immaculate, but compared to the typical beach bathroom (which no one wants to use except in extreme emergencies and even then they hold their breath and if an article of clothing should fall on the floor they throw it away because it's tainted forever) they're remarkably civilized. There's even tissue on the rolls, if you can believe that.

There has been concern about the military limiting public access to the area and about plans for future development. What seems to work best for the area is a system of regulations, akin to the ancient kapu system, including times when the place is shut down and allowed to rest. Hopefully that kind of respectful stewardship can come from all beachgoers, military and civilian. Bellows is unlike any other beach on O'ahu. Let's hope it stays that way.