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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Saturday, December 5, 2009

Monday surf may hit 60 feet


By Eloise Aguiar
Advertiser North Shore Writer

BIG-SWELL SAFETY TIPS

• Spectators should stay well away from the waves.

• Drivers should keep a lookout for pedestrians — and for stop-and-start traffic.

• Campers along the shoreline are being warned to be aware of high surf hazards.

• Homeowners should take measures to protect their property, and be prepared to evacuate if needed.

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High surf expected today is only a prelude to bigger waves heading for the Islands on Monday, when forecasters are predicting 60-foot faces on the North Shore.

Matt Wanink, a meteorologist with the Surf News Network, said a storm is aimed right at the Islands, which doesn't happen often.

"This is going to be a rare event and most likely the biggest swell of the year," Wanink said . "We're forecasting maybe up to 60-foot faces."

The National Weather Service said an extremely strong storm north-northwest of Hawai'i with hurricane-force winds will generate Monday's swell.

Surf will build rapidly tomorrow night and reach heights of 30 to 40 feet with 50-foot sets on the outer reefs early Monday through Tuesday night, the weather service said.

Surf conditions are ripe for the Eddie Aikau surf meet that only runs when wave faces hit 40 feet.

And although surfers and residents alike are excited about the big surf today and Monday, others are bracing for the worst in traffic and possible damage from the high surf.

Yesterday, the city began to prepare for road closures and evacuations.

The weather service has issued a high surf warning for north- and west-facing shores of Ni'ihau, Kaua'i, O'ahu, Moloka'i and Maui, and on the west-facing shores of the Big Island. A high surf advisory also was issued for the east-facing shores of O'ahu and northeast-facing shores of the Big Island.

The city Department of Emergency Services also warned visitors and residents to stay out of the water and be mindful of large sets, even if they're on the beach and standing on dry sand.

"We've seen it many times," said Bryan Cheplic, spokesman for emergency services. "The wave runs up on the beach, overwhelms a person and drags him into the water."

Cheplic said the waves Monday could hit "historical proportions" of which Hawai'i hasn't seen in 15 to 20 years. Anyone considering going in should talk to a lifeguard first or heed any warnings on the beach.

The large waves are expected to generate a lot of sightseers and officials are cautioning pedestrians and motorists to watch out for each other.

The city Department of Emergency Management was on alert last night and was especially wary of a 2 1/2-foot high tide this morning, when surf was expecting to rise to about 30 feet.

"When you have a high surf and a high tide, that's a double whammy, which causes a lot of coastal erosion," said John Cummings, spokesman for emergency management. "We'll get sand, debris and water across the road at places like Chun's Reef and Laniäkea. We may have to close the road while state highways clears it."

The surf is expected to fall below warning levels by tomorrow, but be up again tomorrow night, which means getting the volunteers out to check the roads sometime after midnight, Cummings said.

They will be on the lookout for debris, damage and possible evacuation situations, he said. Police, firefighters and other first responders will also notify the department of problems.

Yesterday, volunteers, police and state Department of Land and Natural Resources personnel went to beaches to warn residents and the homeless of the pending waves, Cummings said.

"This one is looking big," he said. "Comparatively speaking, it's similar to the December 2004 high surf event where we saw waves in the 30- to 40-foot range."

Greg Gersternberger, who operates Ke Iki Beach Bungalow, knows the damage waves can do. One year, a wave smashed into a beachfront unit and broke the large picture window there, Gersternberger said. Another year he was forced to evacuate a guest because someone was hurt.

Yesterday, he was getting storm shutters out to put over louver windows that face the sea. But unless civil defense forces him out, he said he lets his guests decide if they want to stay and he warns them to sleep in the back bedroom.

The front bedroom has a picture window and it could "blow out," he said.

North Shore residents are excited about the high surf, but dread the traffic, said Karen Gallagher, a surf instructor and editor to Paumalu Press.

Every time there's an announcement the waves could reach heights to run the Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau surf contest, people swarm to the North Shore, overwhelming roads and parking, Gallagher said.

"We like to see the big surf," she said. "We like to see the contest. It's just the traffic. It's a nightmare."

BIG-SWELL SAFETY TIPS

• Spectators should stay well away from the waves.

• Drivers should keep a lookout for pedestrians — and for stop-and-start traffic.

• Campers along the shoreline are being warned to be aware of high surf hazards.

• Homeowners should take measures to protect their property, and be prepared to evacuate if needed.