Posted on: Wednesday, January 14, 2009
TASTE
Simple techniques to try Nobu way at home
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Nobu takes just minutes to prepare one of his characteristic Asian fusion dishes at Nobu Waikiki. “I love cooking,” he said. “Cooking is my life.”
REBECCA BREYER | The Honolulu Advertiser
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Though the thought of cooking Nobu's food may seem intimidating to anyone who has seen the gorgeous and multifaceted plates in his restaurants, many of his seemingly complex dishes are based on layering seafood or meats with a series of very simple sauces, dips and garnishes or adding just a slight twist to a classic recipe.
Here are some ideas from "Nobu Miami, The Party Cookbook": (Kodansha International, hardcover, $39.95): When making a ceviche-style dish, don't over-marinate a delicately flavored fish such as 'opakapaka. Just a few minutes in a citrus bath is enough to begin the "cooking" process; too long results in mushy texture and overpowers the flavor of the fish. Nobu just drizzles the citrus (usually a mixture of yuzu and lemon) over slivers of raw fish right on the serving plate. Intensely flavored fish, such as 'ahi, can stand slightly more marination time. Try making potato nigiri. Cut 1/2-inch thick lozenges from baking potatoes, rinse and blot dry and fry (in duck fat, bacon grease or olive oil) in small batches about 5 minutes, until pale but cooked through. Allow to cool 30 minutes and fry again. Use as a base for a seasoned duck breast or grilled steak sushi. Dry miso is a Nobu classic and easy to make. Using a palette knife (or frosting spreader), spread 2/3 cup red, yellow or white miso as thinly as possible on a nonstick baking mat (e.g. Silpat). Dry in a 230-degree oven for 1-2 hours, being careful not to let the miso darken too much. Crumble evenly and store in an airtight container. Use to dress steamed or grilled fish, musubi or hand rolls. With marinated short ribs or grilled steak, serve this easy macadamia sauce: In a blender, combine 1/2 cup roasted macadamia nuts and 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil. Transfer to a bowl and mix in 1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon mirin, 1/2 teaspoon rice vinegar, 3 tablespoons dashi, 1 teaspoon sake. With tempura, try this dip: 1/2 cup rice vinegar, 1/4 cup soy sauce, 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 1 teaspoon key lime juice. (Key lime juice is available bottled in some specialty food stores or online. Or substitute Meyer lemons, in season.) Float a thin slice of lemon in the dipping sauce bowl. To serve with french fries, potato or taro chips, try this mayonnaise: 1 teaspoon soy sauce, 2 tablespoons rice vinegar, 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 piece dried kombu (1/2-inch square). Combine these and refrigerate overnight. Before serving, strain and combine with 7 tablespoons mayonnaise (preferably homemade). The soy/vinegar/lemon/kombu "ponzu" above can be used as a dip without the mayonnaise. Or use it to make a salsa: Make a double batch of the ponzu and strain it; combine with 3/4 of a finely chopped Maui onion, 1 skinned seeded chopped tomato, 1 tablespoon orange juice and 1 teaspoon la yu chili oil. Nobu serves this salsa with Kobe "sliders" (mini-burgers).
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