On previous visits to Hawai'i, I stayed at traditional resorts and took day excursions by car. Standard vacation. But for this trip to the Big Island and Maui, I wanted a change.

In my Volkswagen Westfalia camper, I would, in hippie parlance, have a more organic, free-spirited, chase-the-tail-of-the-whale experience. I could be spontaneous with my schedule and part of a scene true to the Hawaiian lifestyle and environment. And finally, in my drive-up hotel, I could snag $500-a-night ocean views without sacrificing my wallet.

"This is for the adventurer who wants to see Hawai'i for what it really is," said Teri Fritz, who runs Happy Campers Hawai'i on the Big Island with her boyfriend, Bud Turpin. "You can drive up to the water's edge, open up the back, and the beach is right there. You can wake up to a sea turtle in the water or the volcanoes at the national park. You're not going to get that sitting at a hotel."

True enough: My Big Island route drove south to Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, then west to Ho'okena Beach Park in South Kona, then back to the east coast to Laupa- hoehoe Point Beach Park, north of Hilo. On Maui an eventful journey took me along the road to Hana to view waterfalls, valleys and the most beautiful parking slot on the island at YMCA Camp Keanae.

Fritz and Turpin anticipate every need: extra blankets, towels from bath to beach, sun umbrella, phone book, French coffee press, lug wrench. (Aloha Campers on Maui is less comprehensive but provides the basics.) "We want you to look like a local," said Fritz, a veteran VW camper, "like you just drove across from the other side of the island to get out of the rain."

IF YOU GO: Two companies currently rent campers in Hawai'i: Happy Campers Hawaii (888-550-3918, www.happycampershawaii.com) on the Big Island and Aloha Campers (808-281-8020, www.alohacampers.com) on Maui. Both own a fleet of Volkswagen Westfalia campers, which sleep up to four people and come with kitchens.

• Aloha Campers charges $115 per night and includes pots, utensils and a cooler. For $25 more per trip, you get linens, pillows, towels, etc., and for another $25, a portable toilet. Three-night minimum.

• Happy Campers' daily rate is $115; includes all living essentials. Five-night minimum April-September, seven-night minimum October-March.

For both companies, a daily rental car surcharge of $3 and a 4 percent tax are additional. Unlimited mileage, but driver must return the tank full.

CAMPSITES: Some campgrounds require reservations and a permit (you can book online). A few places are first-come, first-served.

Site amenities vary. Favorite overnight spots on the Big Island were Ho'okena Beach Park (808-961-8311, www.hawaii-county.com/parks/parks.htm; $5 a night), on the coast of South Kona; and Namakanipaio Campground (808-985-6000, www.nps.gov/havo; up to seven nights with $10 park admission), a eucalyptus-shaded area in Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park.

On Maui, the YMCA Camp Keanae (808-248-8355, www.mauiymca.org/keanae_amenities.html; $17), along Hana Road and above the Keanae Peninsula.

Equally lovely is the Kipahulu campground at Haleakala National Park (808-248-7375, www.nps.gov/hale; up to three nights per month with $10 park admission), near the visitor center and overlooking the crashing ocean.