For local farmers, the success of this year's Hawai'i State Farm Fair isn't just a triumph of handsome cattle and abundant food, it's a further indication that the public's growing interest in green living and sustainability is making an easier sell of the "buy local" mantra.

Yesterday, thousands packed the Bishop Museum grounds to browse the assemblage of locally grown and locally manufactured goods, try a hand at any of dozens of interactive exhibits, and lay a hand or two on the livestock on display.

Dean Okimoto, president of the Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation, said he expects about 20,000 people to visit the fair this year compared with 15,000 last year.

"A lot of it is just rediscovering agriculture," Okimoto said. "The general public doesn't know what agriculture does."

Okimoto said the green movement has raised the public's overall awareness of the benefits of locally grown food, an awareness that this year has been reflected in greater support of the fair and the federation.

Sabrina St. Martin and sister Monique van der Stroom were on hand to exhibit an array of healthful, tasty fare produced by their Wai'anae-based Naked Dairy.

The sisters started the dairy two years ago and have already found success with their flavored butters and cheeses. They'll soon start production on non-homogenized bottled milk.

Van der Stroom, a veteran of the dairy industry, initially came up with the idea for Naked Dairy, now the only dairy on O'ahu, and recruited St. Martin to help.

St. Martin, who worked as a chef in New Orleans, said she lost "everything" in Hurricane Katrina but appreciates how the experience allowed her to come to Hawai'i to start a niche business she hopes will inspire a new awareness of the possibility of sustainability for the islands.

"We can grow everything we need ourselves," she said. "I think people realize how important this is and they've been really supportive of our dairy."

The North Shore Cattle Company opened in 2000 and quickly made its presence known on the palates of local diners.

The 1,000-acre ranch above Hale'iwa provides beef for restaurants such as Alan Wong's and town. They also sell meat at farmers markets and via home delivery.

"In September when the economy went really down, our business did not go down at all," said Kay Lum, who co-owns the ranch with son Ryan. "We produce healthy food and that's something that people haven't been willing to cut back on. There's still a greater demand than supply.

"Before, people were just looking for the best deals, but with all the (food contamination) scares, they're also looking for food that is healthy and safe," she said. "They know they can feel comfortable with food that is grown and raised here."

Demand has rarely ever been a problem for Hawai'i's taro farmers. But with production down an estimated 2.5 million pounds since 2000, supply is a big concern.

"It's hard work," said Rodney Haraguchi, a taro farmer for 36 years and a member of the Kaua'i Taro Growers Association. "There aren't many young people who want to do it."

Haraguchi said hybrid taro, which can produce two to three times the yield of regular taro, offers a partial solution.

Yesterday, Haraguchi and his fellow KTGA members conducted a taste test pitting traditional poi against poi made from hybrid taro.

Through the early afternoon, the slightly sweeter hybrid-taro was winning the battle of the taste buds.

"I'm torn," said Dana Shimoda-Fraiola, 37, of Kahalu'u. "I love good poi, period."

Shimoda-Fraiola came with her husband, Alika Fraiola, a tropical flower grower, and their two children, Aidan, 4, and Brooke, 2.

The kids preferred the hybrid poi.

"They wanted to eat the entire tray," Shimoda-Fraiola said.

Educational exhibits were provided by the Department of Agriculture and the Hawai'i 4-H Program.

Gary Heusel, the program's first permanent 4-H leader in a decade, said the fair is an important outreach venue for a club seeking to broaden its reach in Hawai'i.

"A lot of people are surprised that they can actually get involved in 4-H," Heusel said. "Some of them think that because they don't live on a farm. We're still trying to shed that rural image."

In fact, Heusel said, the organization's 100-plus projects include everything from gardening to robotics, each specially designed to encourage kids to master specific skills and understandings while gaining a sense of independence and generosity.

The message fell on willing ears yesterday as Heusel found a line of people already waiting outside 4-H exhibition space at 8 a.m.

Indeed, business was brisk at every corner of the fair, especially at the central market where shoppers stocked up on Big Island tomatoes from Wow Farm and all manner of green-leafy from Maunawili Greens, sipped ginger coolers from Pacifikool Island Ginger Ale, and picked through an international roster of veggies — from red Russian kale to Swiss chard to Tahitian limes — all grown at Ma'o Organic Fruits and Vegetables of Wai'anae.

Jere Medeiros, 39, of Kaimuki, was still hoping to reach the market area three hours after arriving at the fair.

Daughter Emma Harada, 3, had an agenda of her own to attend to.

"I like the horsies," Emma said. "I pet the bunnies."