"What we love" is a new TGIF dining feature that highlights Hawai'i restaurants and eateries that we regard as our favorites, with personal notes about what makes these places stand out.

When we were considering adding this feature to the TGIF dining section, it took all of about two minutes for me to make a mental list of all of the places I could write about. Because if the theme is places we love, I can think of plenty.

But when it was time to narrow the list down to one place for today's debut piece, I knew it had to be Fort Street Bar & Grill.

It's one of just a handful of places that immediately springs to mind when I want to pau hana with friends. It's the first place that comes to mind when someone asks me where to get good pupu. It's the only place that comes to mind when I want to relax. Really relax.

Location, location, location: It might sound nuts, but one of things I love about Fort Street Bar & Grill is that it's in a room in an office building.

It's literally like walking into a conference room that's been outfitted with tables, a few unattached booths and a bar.

When someone talks about "atmosphere," they don't mean this place.

And I love it.

I get so tired of having to look good enough to hang out because 1) Sometimes I just don't want to (look good enough) and 2) Who the heck cares what I look like while I'm hanging out? The people at Fort Street Bar & Grill don't, and I love it. Because if they can hang Budweiser mirrors on the wall above a table whose chairs don't match, then I can show up in my boroboro clothes and feel good about it.

My favorite table: It's two tables, actually. They can be shoved together for big parties, or split when it's just me and a friend.

The tables are much too small for the banquette, which means that at least two people have to sit about two feet away from the table at all times. But it's not an inconvenience for us. It's just a part of the experience. Kind of like how cooking a full meal using only a microwave and a hotplate is part of the college dorm experience.

Best servers in town: Two servers work the entire floor. Sometimes they're way too busy, and other times they aren't, but they're always, always happy to see you.

Though Fort Street Bar & Grill might seem like an insiders' club (the semi-hidden location makes it feel like it's not supposed to be found by the general public), it's not.

I dislike exclusivity. I hate walking into a place and feeling like I'm intruding on some meeting of the inner circle. There's none of that at Fort Street B&G. If you can find it, you're as welcome as the folks who spend every night at the bar.

Good food, every time: Fort Street B&G is owned by Colin Nishida, who also owns Side Street Inn. And like Side Street, Fort Street B&G serves hearty, meaty pau hana fare. The pupu steak is amazing. It comes sizzling at a perfect medium and then finishes to a nice, barely pink well-done — if it stays on the hot plate long enough, that is. It's usually gone before it has a chance to cook to complete wellness, and then you're left picking at the bits of leftover caramelized onions.

The deep-fried pork chops are also a must-try, and being able to get the signature Side Street Inn dish without battling the crowds is reason enough to order it at Fort Street B&G. The other reason to order the chops is because they are big, fried chunks of tender pork. Plus, they come with a super special dipping sauce: ketchup. Sounds incredibly plebian, and I suppose it is, but if it tastes good, eat it. And it tastes good.

The kitchen cooks up daily specials — everything from kim-chee steak to miso fried chicken — and if the server suggests a special, it's almost certainly worth getting.

My rule for grinding at Fort Street B&G: Always get the steak, always get french fries (to soak up the steak juices, of course) and always take at least one dish suggestion from the staff. Follow that one rule, and you'll leave happier than when you arrived. Guaranteed.

Early to bed: This is when bar lovers are going to question my love for this place.

It closes early.

Whether by design, or by evolution, Fort Street B&G doesn't serve the late-night crowd. It's almost strictly a pau hana bar, and I love that about it.

Maybe it's an age thing (am I really old enough to start blaming things on my age?), but I love knowing that I can have a great time and still be in bed by 11.

Or maybe it's because I'm one of those people who has a hard time leaving. I always stay too long. At parties, in jobs, in relationships ... at bars.

It's a troublesome character flaw that I'm constantly having to keep in check. Fort Street Bar & Grill keeps me in check for me. It saves me from myself, and if that's not love, I don't know what is.

Share the love: What do you love? Where's your favorite table? What's your favorite dish? We want to know about the places that make you happy and why. Send your picks to me, Kawehi, at khaug@honoluluadvertiser.com, and I might visit your favorite place next.