Cut tofu lengthwise and then crosswise to make blocks about 1-inch square. Slide these onto a heat-proof plate. Arrange fish pieces atop tofu. Scatter ginger over the top. Bring water in a steamer to a boil and place dish on rack to steam, covered — about 15-20 minutes until fish is translucent and cooked through. Not long before the fish is done, heat a little oil (or, if you want to replicate the restaurant dish, a lot) until very hot. As soon as the fish is done, ladle the sizzling oil over, splash it with soy sauce, scatter green onion and garnish with cilantro. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 servings.

Here, we add some zest: tamarind for a puckery, slightly sour background, soy-ginger-garlic spiked with red chili for a more complex flavor. Tofu forms a base for the dish, soaking up the sauce and fish juices.

STEAMED FISH WITH TOFU

Pat fillets dry with paper towels. Mash tamarind paste with fork and rub on fillets. In a saucepan over medium heat, combine chili, garlic, ginger, black bean, soy sauce, sugar, peanut oil and cornstarch water, stir until mixture thickens. Remove from heat and cool. Set up a steamer (see note) and bring water to a boil; turn down to steady simmer. Cut tofu into 1/2-inch slices and line steamer basket with tofu. Drizzle one-third of the seasoning mixture evenly over tofu. Steam 2 minutes. Remove from steam and place fish pieces atop tofu. Drizzle with one-third of seasoning mixture over fish and steam over boiling water 5-7 minutes, until fish is cooked through. Scatter green onions over fish and serve — leave fish in steamer or remove to serving dish or individual plates with a spatula.

Makes 6-8 servings.