The Vegetarian
Golden Cauliflower in Spicy Tomato Sauce

Cauliflower is a member of the crucifer family of vegetables that includes broccoli and cabbage, but despite its family tree, cauliflower is relatively mild-tasting and sometimes even sweet, food writer Jack Bishop says.

He gives the vegetable a chapter in his book "Pasta E Verdura" (Quill, $16 paperback, 2000) - the Italian of the title translates to "pasta and vegetables." The book, originally published in 1996, features 140 vegetable sauces for every kind of noodle.

Bishop was inspired, he explains, by the simplicity of great Italian cooking, "delicious everyday dishes, really nothing more than well-prepared Italian peasant food." All his recipes are written to sauce1 pound of pasta, enough for four main-course servings, he says. "I have designed every recipe in this book to be a complete meal for four when served with some salad and bread."

The best pasta choice for the following recipe is spaghetti or another long, very thin shape, Bishop says. Sauteing small pieces of cauliflower for a relatively long time (15 to 20 minutes) allows them to develop a rich, golden color and a pleasant sweetness, which is further complemented by a small amount of butter.

Golden Cauliflower in Spicy Tomato Sauce

1 small head cauliflower (about 2 pounds)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 medium cloves garlic, peeled
1 large onion, peeled and sliced thin
2 cups drained canned whole tomatoes, juice reserved
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
1 pound pasta

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese to taste

Bring 4 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large pot for the pasta.

Discard the leaves from the cauliflower. Remove the core and stalks and break the cauliflower into small florets. Slice the florets into small, bite-sized pieces. There should be about 4 cups of florets.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil and the butter in a large saute pan. Add the cauliflower and whole garlic cloves. Saute over medium heat, turning the vegetables several times to promote even cooking, until the cauliflower is golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove cauliflower from the pan and set it aside.

Add the remaining oil to the pan that still contains the whole garlic cloves. Add the onion and cook over medium heat until the thin slices have wilted and turned golden brown, about 12 minutes. Remove and discard the garlic cloves.

Coarsely chop the tomatoes and add them to the pan along with 1/2 cup of their packing juice, the salt and the red hot pepper flakes. Simmer gently, occasionally using a spoon to break apart the tomatoes, until the sauce thickens, 10 to 15 minutes.

Return the cooked cauliflower to the pan. Simmer just until the cauliflower is heated through and the flavors are well-combined, about

5 minutes. Stir in the parsley. Taste for salt and hot pepper and adjust seasonings if necessary.

While preparing the sauce, cook and drain the pasta. Toss the hot pasta with the cauliflower sauce. Mix well and transfer portions to warm pasta bowls. Serve immediately with grated cheese passed separately.

Makes 4 servings.

[back to top]