Modern chowders leave room for experimenting

Don’t picture the traditional chowder as a dish that can’t evolve. Cooks are tailoring chowder recipes to fit in with the current interest in healthier eating styles, but that don’t forget the flavor.

Nutritionists at the American Institute for Cancer Research found ways of revamping chowder, using a variety of cooking techniques to keep full-bodied taste. At the same time, their recipes combine ingredients in proportions their research suggests helps fight cancer.

These updated chowders differ in quite a few ways from the conventional kind made with just a few basic ingredients, says Melanie Polk, the institute’s director of nutrition education.

"They make use of many different types of foods and capitalize on the health-protective features of vegetables, whole grains and other plant-based foods."

Dictionaries tell us the term chowder derives from the Old French word "chaudiere," a cauldron-like pot. Culinary encyclopedias say chowder-like fish soups developed along coastal regions around the world.

Bouillabaisse is probably the most familiar of Mediterranean chowders, but other coastal areas have their own specialties, from the sweet-and-sour fish soups of Southeast Asia to the conch chowders of the Bahamas.

In the early days of American colonial history, "chowder" generally meant a dense soup made with clams or a fish like cod, often thickened with crackers and sometimes containing potatoes. Depending on the region, a chowder might be creamy, red or clear.

Boston chowder is traditionally made with milk or cream, although some purists believe authentic New England chowder is clear, made with clam broth, stock or water. Manhattan chowder uses a tomato base.

Markets today offer a great variety of fresh produce and more healthful flavorings. Although the classic chowders are made with seafood, potatoes or corn, Polk says, "A chowder can taste great made with poultry, and almost any type of vegetable, including squash and sweet potatoes, works well in this dish."

Potatoes are the traditional starchy vegetable used in chowders, but any grain or legume can be substituted to provide texture and body.

"Instead of potatoes, try rice, barley, beans, lentils, quinoa or even baked tortilla corn chips," Polk suggests.

New England chowder recipes usually call for whole milk and sometimes cream as well, which significantly raise calorie and fat levels. Instead of high-fat dairy products, Polk suggests using low-fat (2 percent) milk.

To add body and richness that compensate for the reduced fat, she suggests techniques that can be used either separately or in combination, according to individual tastes.

One technique is to replace half of the low-fat milk with an equal amount of evaporated skim milk. Another technique is to make a thin paste by mixing a small amount of cornstarch into some of the soup broth (after it has cooled to room temperature), stir the mixture into the chowder, and then briefly simmer the soup a minute or two, until the cornstarch thickens the milky broth.

Polk suggests allowing a just-cooked chowder to rest up to one hour at room temperature, or refrigerating it for up to three days. She also points out that preparing a quantity greater than needed for one meal and refrigerating what is left over leaves you with future servings of chowder with improved taste.

Here are three recipes to try:

New England Style Chowder

2 bacon slices, chopped
1/2 cup finely-chopped onion
2 cups clam juice (if using clams) or fish bouillon (if using fish)
4 cups 2 percent milk, or 2 cups 2 percent milk and 2 cups evaporated skim milk
1 cup peeled and diced potatoes
2 cups peeled and diced butternut squash or kabocha
1 bay leaf

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 cup chopped fresh spinach leaves or frozen spinach
1 cup corn kernels

Five 6 1/2-ounce cans chopped clams, drained; or 1 pound freshly shucked clams, chopped (juices reserved); or 1 pound fish fillet cut in ß-inch pieces

1/2 teaspoon thyme
2 tablespoons butter or margarine, softened (optional)
Paprika for garnish

Cook bacon on low-to-medium heat in a heavy, deep pan such as a dutch oven until all the fat has liquefied and bacon is crisp. (Be careful bacon doesn’t burn.) With a slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper toweling and set aside.

Stir onion into bacon fat and cook about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft, translucent and pale gold. Add clam juice or fish bouillon, milk, potatoes, squash and bay leaf. Bring to a boil, uncovered, over high heat, then reduce heat to simmer. Partially cover with lid and simmer about 15 minutes or until vegetables are tender but not falling apart.

(Optional techniques of pureeing potatoes or using cornstarch to add body to the soup may be done at this stage, after the vegetables are cooked. For pureeing technique:

Remove cooked potatoes from chowder with slotted spoon, puree in blender with small amount of soup liquid until completely smooth, and transfer back to chowder. To thicken with cornstarch: Remove 1/2 cup soup liquid from pot and let cool to room temperature before mixing in 1 tablespoon cornstarch; mix until completely smooth, add to chowder, and simmer gently 1 to 2 minutes.)

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Chowder may be made up to this point one day ahead and refrigerated, tightly covered, until ready for final stage of preparation. At that point, reheat chowder until hot before continuing with recipe.

Add spinach, corn, clams or fish, and thyme. Simmer gently until seafood is just barely cooked through, being careful seafood does not overcook (clams need only a few minutes). Remove from heat and stir in butter or margarine, if using. Check seasoning; add salt and pepper, if necessary, to taste.

When ready to serve, discard bay leaf and ladle hot chowder into individual bowls. Crumble reserved bacon, if using, and sprinkle over soup. Lightly sprinkle with paprika. Serve with oyster or similar crackers.

Makes about 6 servings.

This Manhattan chowder is rich in color, texture and flavor, belying its low-fat content.

Manhattan-Style Chowder

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 ribs celery, finely chopped
2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced
1 large bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
Two 14- to 16-ounce cans stewed tomatoes
4-ounce can diced green chili peppers, rinsed and drained (optional)
2 cups diced potatoes
2 cups diced carrots
1 cup frozen lima beans, defrosted
2 cups tomato juice
2 cups clam juice (if using clams) or fish bouillon (if using fish)

Six 6 1/2-ounce cans chopped clams, drained, juices reserved; or 1 pound freshly shucked clams, chopped; or 1 pound fillet of fish cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch pieces (see note)

2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning, or to taste (optional)

Heat a large heavy skillet or dutch oven over high heat. Add oil and reduce heat to medium. Add onion, celery, garlic, bay leaf and thyme. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent and pale gold.

Add tomatoes with their juices, green chilies (if used), potatoes, carrots, lima beans, tomato juice and clam juice. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce heat and simmer until vegetables are tender but potatoes are not falling apart.

Add clams or fish, clam juice or fish bouillon, and Old Bay Seasoning as desired. Heat just below simmering point until clams are heated throughout, or fish is cooked through. Take care not to overcook seafood. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt, pepper and Old Bay Seasoning.

When ready to serve, ladle hot chowder into bowls and serve.

Note: If using canned clams, use juices from the can for the 2 cups needed. If using freshly shucked clams, use juices from clam shells plus enough bottled clam juice to make 2 cups. (Most bottled clam juice is sold in 8-ounce containers.)

Makes 8 servings.

The following chowder uses chicken instead of fish and, in place of potatoes, a grain plus legumes that increase its nutritional value. A vegetarian version can be made by eliminating the chicken and replacing the chicken broth with one made from vegetables.

Vegetable and Chicken Chowder With Barley

2 tablespoons canola oil
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 red bell pepper, diced
2 ribs celery, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon dried cilantro
1 tablespoon dried parsley
15 1/2-ounce can cannellini (white kidney) beans, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup yellow split peas, picked over and rinsed
1/2 cup lentils, picked over and rinsed
1/2 cup barley
8 cups chicken bouillon or canned low-fat chicken broth
1 large bay leaf
1 to 2 teaspoons salt (if desired), to taste
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
1 cup diced cooked chicken

Heat a large heavy skillet or dutch oven over high heat. Add oil and reduce heat to medium. Add onion, bell pepper, celery, garlic, thyme, cilantro and parsley. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent and pale gold.

Add beans, split peas, lentils, barley, broth, bay leaf, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until vegetables, legumes and barley are tender, stirring occasionally. (If liquid evaporates too quickly and mixture becomes dry, add additional broth or water in incremental amounts, about 1/2 cup at a time, until chowder resembles a thick soup.)

Add chicken and heat through. Check seasoning; add salt and pepper if necessary, to taste.

Note: This chowder can easily be modified to a vegetarian chowder by substituting vegetable for chicken broth and eliminating the chicken.

Makes 6 servings.

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