Guidelines for custom-made dresses

If you’re having a garment custom made — here are a few things you should know.

If you’ve never sewn, you may not realize that pattern sizes are a far cry from off-the-rack sizes. Keri Haitsuka is a size 1 or 2 when she buys ready-to-wear clothing. But she is a size 6 to 8 in a Vogue pattern. Look at the measurements

on the pattern package before you select a pattern size. If you don't know your measurements, ask someone in the fabric store to loan you a measuring tape. The bust is the most critical measurement for assuring a proper fit.

Allow a minimum of one month to have a garment made. You'll need an initial conference, fabric selection, time for design and construction and at least one fitting.

Bring the seamstress as much information as possible: pictures from magazines, patterns, fabric swatches or suggestions, design details like buttons and trims.

Wear the same undergarments and shoes to the fitting that you will wear to the event. The hem can be way off if you’re wearing different shoes. The bust line can be inaccurate with a different bra. And if there are any lumps and bumps, it's better to know about them in advance so you can find an undergarment to minimize them.

Fabric selection can make or break a garment. It’s ideal to take the seamstress with you when shopping for fabric. If that’s not possible, get as much help as you can from the salespeople at the fabric store. Show them the style you want and ask if it’s compatible with the fabric you selected.

A general guideline: If you’re slender, a clingy fabric is fine. If you're shapely, you’ll look better in something crisp or structured.

Know what looks best on you. Analyze your favorite garments to learn what flatters and what detracts.

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