The Vegetarian
Bean: the keystone of meatless diets

The bean is the world’s most healthful food, the one thing that’s found in every diet, Roy J. Guste Jr. says.

A New Orleans-based food authority and historian, Guste recently wrote a chunky book in praise of this valuable food, "The Bean Book" (W.W. Norton, $30).

He talks about the versatility of the bean in many cultures, and its place in many cuisines, not only in vegetarian regimes, but he makes a point of emphasizing its nutritional value in meatless diets.

"It’s the only vegetable that delivers enough protein to live on," he says.

His recipe for Hungarian White Bean Goulash makes a hearty entree for a vegetarian meal. Watch the beans’ simmering time, he advises the cook, to be certain they don’t get too soft in the cooking. Then fold the cooked vegetables gently into the beans without breaking up the potatoes.

The amount of paprika can be reduced if your personal taste is for less heat. Fresh paprika makes all the difference in this recipe, he adds. Try to use Hungarian paprika, he says, because it’s generally more flavorful than other packaged kinds.

Hungarian White Bean Goulash

• 1 pound dried white haricot beans, soaked overnight or quick-soaked
• 8 cups water
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 1 1/2 pounds unpeeled potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 3/4-inch dice
• 4 tablespoons oil (or for nonvegetarians, lard, the traditional ingredient)
• 2 medium onions, chopped
• 2 sweet green bell peppers, seeded and thinly sliced
• 6 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 teaspoons caraway seeds
• 1 large tomato, diced
• 3 tablespoons Hungarian paprika, preferably hot

In a bean pot, simmer the soaked beans covered in the water until tender, but not soft, about 1à hours. Add more water if necessary during the cooking.

Season with salt and add the diced potatoes. Cook for another 30 minutes.

While the potatoes and beans are finishing their cooking, heat the lard or fat in a large saute pan and add the chopped onions, bell peppers, garlic and caraway seeds. Saute until the vegetables begin to color and add to the bean pot. Add the tomato and paprika to the pot.

Simmer gently for 20 minutes, adjust the seasonings if desired, and serve in bowls.

Makes 6 servings as an entree.

If you wish to make a lighter version: Omit the salt; use oil, not lard. Increase the amount of garlic by 2 cloves, caraway seeds by 1 teaspoon, and paprika by 1 tablespoon (provided the paprika is not too hot). Add 2 tablespoons cider vinegar when the cooked vegetables are added to the pot.

Nutrition information per serving, regular version with lard: 459 cal., 19.5 g pro., 76 g carbo., 18.5 g dietary fiber, 10.3 g fat, 8.1 mg chol., 739 mg sodium.

Nutrition information per serving, light version: 389 cal., 20 pro., 77 g carbo., 19 g dietary fiber, 2 g fat, 0 mg chol., 20 mg sodium.

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