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The Honolulu Advertiser

Posted on: Tuesday, June 21, 2005

Bikini beautiful

 •  Search for swimsuits led to designing them

By Paula Rath
Advertiser Staff Writer

Today marks the first official day of summer. That means the height of swimsuit season is upon us. Of course the search for the ideal swimsuit is a year-round odyssey for Island women, but summer always seems to up the ante.

Winter Baker, left, and Megan Morrison show off Hawaiian Hula Girl bikinis. The swimsuits are designed by Erika Ireland, a former prosecuting attorney.

Photos by Robert Coello

Sad but true: Few women see themselves as they really are. Body image is as much about psychology as physiology.

Before you head out to shop, take a good hard look at yourself in a full-length mirror with as little on as you can tolerate (a current favorite swimsuit is ideal).

What features do you want to flaunt? What would you like to camouflage?

Since shopping for a swimsuit is often high on women's lists of "most dreaded" things to do, along with public speaking and dying, we talked to two experts to help you navigate the treacherous territory of the dressing room.

Kailua-based swimwear designer Erika Ireland, owner of Hawaiian Hula Girl, shared her tips for helping women to find the best possible bathing suits for their bodies, while Chris Schwart, owner of Sundance, a beachwear boutique in Aloha Tower Marketplace, offered his ideas on shopping for swimwear.

Since it's estimated that more than 80 percent of Island women wear bikinis or two-piece suits, we focused on those styles.



Anxiety zone: Wide hips

Goal: Draw attention toward the face and upper body.

Suit solution: A bottom cut high on the thighs can help. Contrary to popular belief, a lot of fabric covering up a big bum will only serve to draw the eye there and make it look even bigger. Look for solid bottoms and bright prints, color blocking or ombres on top. The more detailed and shapely the top, the better. Boy shorts are a no-no; Ireland calls them "a beacon on a woman with wide hips."

Short stature

Lengthen the look of legs with a high-cut bottom with narrow sides

Anxiety zone: Shortness

Goal: Lengthen the look of the legs

Suit solution: A high-cut bottom with narrow sides can elongate legs. Don't be a slave to fashion. Low-rise bottoms with boy-cut legs will create a horizontal line, dividing the figure in half. 50/50 is the worst possible proportion ratio.



Rectangle shape

Mix and match solids and prints; tankinis can help camouflage a no-waist figure

Anxiety zone: Rectangular shape, no waist

Goal: Give the illusion of a waist.

Suit solution: Mix and match solids and prints. A tankini with a tank top and bikini bottom helps camouflage the no-waist figure. Draping, ruching, diagonal lines and design details can cause the eye to skip around and "create" shape. Avoid a solid, plain suit at all costs.



Small Bust

Textured fabric, a little padding, or tie-front tops can enhance look

Anxiety zone: Small bust

Goal: Maximize what you've got.

Suit solution: Try a tie-front top to create the look of cleavage. Look for underwire tops with a little padding but be sure to test swim or surf in them before hitting the beach or pool. A highly textured fabric, horizontal stripes, gathers or ruching on top can help.



Large bust

Tankinis with wide straps or a halter top are more supportive

Anxiety zone: Large bust

Goal: Minimize what you've got.

Suit solution: Look for the best support you can find. A tankini with wide straps is a good choice, as are halter tops. A band that goes all the way around the suit under the bust can help hold everything in neatly. Triangle tops are a no-no.



Anxiety zone: Full-figured

Goal: Camouflage a tummy and roundish torso.

Suit solution: Look for interesting (low, sexy) necklines. Prints are better than solids. Try diagonal stripes, tucks or ruching across the torso of a tankini.

Schwart said the most common mistake women make when trying on swimsuits is to squeeze into a size that's too small. "Every suit will stretch just a little when it gets in the water, but not a whole size. It will always be more flattering to go with what fits right."

Ireland warned about the "roll over" effect you can get when a suit cuts into you because it's too tight. Even a slender woman can look pudgy when this happens.

My rule is to ignore the numbers. If you don't like the size, cut out the size tag as soon as you get it home.

Schwart praises the popularity of tankinis. "I recommend women try a tankini instead of sticking with a one-piece because it will give you the same coverage but can adjust to meet your needs."

Ireland said she sees too many full-figured women wearing suits with "too much coverage. This often creates an illusion that they are larger than they actually are. Only cover what needs to be covered. For example, most people don't need extra coverage in the front of their suit bottom. It can give a diaper-like effect that is not slimming."

One of the best strategies for successful swimsuit shopping is to take along a trusted friend who is willing to be brutally honest. Sometimes, no matter how hard we try, we simply cannot see ourselves as we really are.

Reach Paula Rath at 525-5464 or prath@honoluluadvertiser.com.