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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Friday, August 10, 2007

Trail can be rewarding, but tricky to navigate

Video: Take a Hike with Mike: Kahana Valley
 •  Hawaii Polo Club will hold Al Lopaka tribute
 •  Gymnasts claim crowns

By Michael Tsai
Advertiser Staff Writer

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

There are several stream crossings on the hike, and participants should take care to watch their footing.

ALLIE TSAI | Special to The Advertiser

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HIKE SCHEDULE

Previously:

Aug. 3: Hawai'iloa Ridge

Upcoming: Olomana

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser
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TODAY'S HIKE: KAHANA VALLEY

Level: Intermediate

Total distance: 5 miles (Nakoa Trail) / 8 miles double loop

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Directions to trailhead

Heading west on the H-1 Freeway, take the Likelike offramp and continue up Kalihi Valley through the Wilson Tunnels and on to Kahekili Highway. Follow Kahekili as it becomes Kamehameha Highway and continue on to Kahana Valley State Park, located on your left. Check in at the visitor center for maps and a combination (changed weekly) for the first gate about a mile up the road. Continue on the main road until you reach the trailhead on the left.

What We Like

Mild 450-foot elevation gain, well-maintained but not over-constructed trail, abundant native and non-native flora, several stream crossings.

What We Don't Like

Trail is a bit over-marked, with hiker and hunter ribbons overlapping to make choosing the right path something of a guessing game. Juncture for the double loop is difficult to discern. Beaucoup mosquitoes.

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From summit ridges to lush, green valleys, fast-running streams to bone-dry brush, Hawai'i's public access trails offer an unrivaled variety of unique hiking experiences — sometimes on a single trail. This summer, Advertiser reporter Michael Tsai takes a look at some of O'ahu's best novice, intermediate and advanced trails.

It's easy to get lost in Kahana Valley, in both the best and worst senses of the notion.

Two Danish hikers made headlines in 1999 when they veered off the path and wound up spending eight days along the summit ridge waiting to be rescued. Scores more have found their hike itineraries extended by hours, even overnight, after losing their bearings along the interlocking trails that meander through the valley.

Yet, for those with an aptitude for deciphering maps and understanding trail directions, the valley offers one of the most satisfying hiking experiences on O'ahu.

The 5-mile Nakoa Trail is suitable for beginners and can be extended into an 8-mile double loop trek for intermediate hikers. Both options offer a banquet of sensory experiences.

Let your eyes swim in oceans of green uluhe fern or fix your vision on the rough, Van Gogh-like strokes of fallen hala that shape the trail. Wince at the scrape of prickly scrub or sigh at the rush of cool stream water over your feet. Taste the valley's offerings of mountain apple, guava, mango and kukui nut. Listen to the trills of native songbirds above or to the clacking of bamboo trees in the distance. Or just stop and smell the ginger.

The trail can be accessed by entering the Kahana Valley State Park (maps are available at the park's visitor center) and proceeding — on foot, unless you are able to get the combination for the lock on the first gate — along the main road through a Native Hawaiian residential area.

Even in the middle of summer, the thick canopy of trees along the trail blocks much of the direct sunlight, allowing for a cool if sometimes humid hike.

After a brief descent toward Kahana Stream, hikers encounter a small dam at the first of nearly a dozen stream crossings along the double-loop trail. A rope extends the full width of the dam but footing along the moss-covered top of the structure is tenuous at best, especially when the stream is running fast. (Felt-bottom tabis are recommended for this and other larger crossings.)

The trail continues on the left and ascends away from the stream and toward the ridge line, initiating a series of gently rolling hills. At the first major junction, hikers should turn right and descend through a corridor of hala and hau plants.

The trail dips at another short stream crossing then rises along a broad, hau-covered terrace leading to a four-way junction. Here, hikers have the option of continuing straight ahead along the Nakoa Trail, turning right to return to the main road, or turning left to link with the second loop.

Those continuing with the longer, double-loop trail will follow the linking trail to a fork. To the right is the traditional start of the second loop; to the left is the end of the return portion.

Keeping right, hikers will pass a grove of mountain apple trees, which reach full fruit-bearing mode in the late summer.

After a pair of short but slippery stream crossings, hikers come to another junction (stay right) and then two more stream crossings.

The trail continues alongside and eventually across a larger side stream before reconnecting with Kahana Stream, which hikers will follow downstream until reaching a sharp left turn at a large pool.

Following the trail along the right bank heading downstream, hikers first cross the main stream, then a side stream, then the main stream twice more.

The trail forks once again a little farther downstream. The trail to the left leads to the return portion of the second loop, but hikers who still feel fresh will want to continue to the right, across a wide section of the stream and through a smaller side stream, to another large pool.

This is an ideal place to stop for lunch or a quick dip. Reflective hikers have wiled away many hours here, sitting on one of the large flat boulders and listening to the wind passing through the nearby bamboo grove.

The trail continues through the grove and up a narrow section of eroded trail that eventually leads back to the initial fork at the start of the second loop.

Taking the trail to the right, hikers return through the short linking path between the two loops and then to the four-way junction. To complete the trail, hikers should turn left to the uphill trail up to a terrace and follow the meandering trail along the side of the valley.

At a large water tank, turn right along the fence, connect with the paved road, and return to the first junction and the main road leading back to the visitor station.

The Kahana Valley double-loop trail isn't physically demanding, but it is considered an intermediate hike because of the number of navigational decisions hikers need to make to complete it without getting lost. For those who make the effort, the reward is an entrancing hike in one of the island's most lush and untouched valleys.

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KEEP THESE TIPS IN MIND WHEN CROSSING A STREAM

Several of O'ahu's best valley hikes involve crossing short, mostly shallow streams. And while the experience can be a lot of fun, it does take some skill and caution to do it safely. Here are a few things to keep in mind.
• Consider using river-walker style sandals or felt-bottom tabis to walk across mossy or submerged rocks.
• Plot your route across the stream before stepping in. Look for lines of exposed boulders that you can use to hop-step across.
• Use hiking sticks or a good, sturdy fallen tree branch to give you more stability and to test rocks and boulders before stepping on them.
• If the crossing point is not clearly indicated on your map or route description, walk along the band and look for the safest way across. This will not necessarily be the narrowest point; wider crossings may have slower currents and shallower water.
• As a general rule, do not attempt to cross streams with quick-flowing water that extends higher than your knees.
• In quicker-flowing water, angle the foot on the side of the water flow slightly upstream while keeping the other pointed in the direction you're heading.
• Should you fall, gather yourself before attempting to rise. If the stream is deep and flowing, crouch or squat to establish your footing, then rise slowly to adjust to the force of the current. Get safely to the bank before looking for any items you might have lost; chances are you can recover them downstream.

Reach Michael Tsai at mtsai@honoluluadvertiser.com.