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The Honolulu Advertiser
Posted on: Wednesday, March 25, 2009

TASTE
GOLDEN, DELICIOUS MUFFINS — EASY TO MAKE AT HOME
Biscuits: An American classic

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By Nancy Wall Hopkins
Better Homes and Gardens

Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Making your own baking powder is easy and economical.

McClatchy-Tribune News Service photos

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Hawaii news photo - The Honolulu Advertiser

Executive chef Scott Peacock, a Better Homes and Gardens American Classics expert, has many tips on how to make the perfect biscuit.

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A hot oven and a confident hand are the key to perfect biscuits. To get the details down pat, Better Homes and Gardens magazine made a batch with American cooking guru Scott Peacock, executive chef at Watershed Restaurant in Decatur, Ga., and named Best Chef in the Southeast by the James Beard Foundation in 2007.

His wisdom?

"The perfect biscuit:

  • is crusty and golden brown on the top, and lightly browned on the bottom.

  • has a soft, light center that is tender, but not too airy.

  • is not too dry, not too moist. When you add a pat of butter it will soak right in.

  • is delicious by itself, yet makes an excellent vehicle for other flavors. It should be well-seasoned with salt, with a slight buttermilk tang.

  • is the right size — 3 inches across and 1 inch high — the ratio of crusty exterior to soft interior is important."

    His advice?

    "I never re-roll the scraps. I like the odd bits and pieces of leftover dough baked right alongside the biscuits. They're a treat to eat."

    More good advice:

    Use any good unbleached all-purpose flour — unbleached flour contains more protein than bleached flour and makes a slightly sturdier biscuit. "I prefer organic unbleached flour. Whichever flour you use, always sift the flour first and measure after sifting. Sifting the flour produces lighter biscuits."

    Making your own baking powder is easy and economical. Sift together three times the following: 1/4 cup cream of tartar and 2 tablespoons baking soda. Store in a clean, dry, tight-sealing jar at room temperature, away from direct sunlight, up to 4 weeks. Use in any recipe calling for purchased baking powder.

    "Working the lard in properly is the secret to success. First, coat the lard in the flour mixture and rub between your fingertips until roughly half the lard is coarsely blended and the other half remains in large pieces, about 3/4 inch in size."

    When mixing the dough, stir just until the batter is well-moistened and begins to cling together. Overworking can lead to tough, dry, and heavy biscuits; underworking can result in biscuits that are crumbly and leaden.

    Go for a light touch when kneading. Knead gently but quickly and avoid pressing too firmly. Lift and fold the dough gently onto itself, giving it a quarter turn after each knead.

    Dust your rolling pin with flour and roll from center toward edges. Avoid pressing too firmly. If dough sticks to rolling pin, dust the pin, not the dough.

    Pricking the dough with a fork before baking allows steam to be released during baking and helps the biscuits rise more evenly.

    Cut biscuits out as close together as possible to get the maximum yield. Press down firmly, but do not twist the cutter. Twisting seals the sides, preventing biscuits from rising as nicely.

    Slightly shake the filled cutter to free the biscuit. Don't overhandle. Arrange biscuits as close together as you can so they barely touch.

    CLASSIC BUTTERMILK BISCUITS

  • 5 cups sifted unbleached all-purpose flour (measured after sifting)

  • 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoon homemade baking powder

  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt

  • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed lard or butter, chilled

  • 2 cups chilled buttermilk

  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

    Heat oven to 500 degrees. In large bowl whisk together flour, homemade baking powder and kosher salt. Add lard, coating in flour. Working quickly, rub lard between fingertips until roughly half the lard is coarsely blended and half remains in large pieces, about 3/4 inch.

    Make a well in center of flour mixture. Add buttermilk all at once.

    With a large spoon stir mixture quickly, just until it is blended and begins to mass and form a sticky dough. (If dough appears dry, add 1 to 2 tablespoons additional buttermilk.)

    Immediately turn dough onto generously floured surface. Using floured hands, knead briskly 8 to 10 times until cohesive ball of dough forms. Gently flatten dough with hands to even thickness. Using floured rolling pin, lightly roll dough to 3/4-inch thickness.

    Using a dinner fork dipped in flour, pierce dough completely through at 1/2-inch intervals. Flour a 2 1/2- or 3-inch biscuit cutter. Stamp out rounds and arrange on heavy parchment-lined baking sheet. Add dough pieces, as is, to baking sheet.

    Place on rack in upper third of oven. Bake 8 to 12 minutes until crusty and golden brown. Remove. Brush with melted butter. Serve hot.

    Makes 12 to 16 biscuits.

  • Per biscuit: 231 calories, 12 g fat (3 g saturated fat), 8 mg cholesterol, 200 mg sodium, 26 g carbohydrates, 2 g fiber, 6 g protein. Daily values: 8 percent vitamin A, 18 percent vitamin C, 7 percent calcium, 7 percent iron.

    For videos and more how-tos from Scott, log on to www.bhg.com/americanclassics/biscuits.

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