Notable: Ryan’s never seems to get any less busy or popular, no matter how many other places come and go. Sports on TV, the convenient Ward Centre location, the well-stocked bar, lively conversation and the indulgent pupu menu all play a role. Ryan’s recently added 30 new items to an already bountiful drinks menu.

Menu: Sit where you can see the hot line sometime and watch chef Bill Bruhl and his lieutenants turn out the artichoke dip, the kalua pork pizza, the pupu pops and the meat-lover’s trio of kal bi, Auntie Ruthie’s Li Hing Ribs and guava-glazed ribs. They are on it and the uncomplicated but delicious food just makes you happy.

FYI: Ward Centre, 1200 Ala Moana Blvd.; 591-9132. 11:15 a.m.-1 a.m. Mondays-Saturdays. Sunday brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m., Sunday dinner 3 p.m.-1 a.m. Reservations recommended for large parties. VS, MC, AX, DC. Checks accepted. $$.