Notable: This is a beautiful setting for a restaurant — a second-floor location with both indoor and veranda seating, the latter allowing a view of the pools and hotel grounds as well as the sea beyond, sheltered by vine-covered trellises with the sweet scent of stephanotis surrounding you. If you want to visit, make reservations; this place is very popular and often booked.

Menu: Menu focuses on seafood, from diver scallops to tiger shrimp and grilled mahi, it leans toward southern European accents; impressive wine cellar.

FYI: Fairmont Kea Lani Hotel, Wailea; (808) 879-7224. 5:30-10 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 5:30-10:30 Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS. No checks. $$$.

Hoku's at the Kahala Mandarine Oriental Hawaii • Best Hotel Restaurant, O'ahu

Notable: This beautiful warm-toned, wood-rich room takes full advantage of the second-floor view of the glistening bay. It’s one of the few places where you can take a visiting foodie with exacting standards: He or she will appreciate the cutting-edge cuisine and the setting in equal measure. Executive chef Wayne Hirabayashi calls the style “rustic international” — including use of a tandoori oven, a hearth-style oven and woks.

Menu: Nothing status quo here: Veal Osso Buco with Preserved Lemon, Spring Chicken 2 Ways (lemongrass breast, confit of leg), Wok Lobster and Black Mussels. From the local palette, Hoku’s updates such island favorites as oxtail soup (with savory chive pancakes), fried rice (with three times pork — char siu, barbecue ribs, house-smoked ham), sushi (Symphony of ‘Ahi features sushi, tartare, poke mousse, grilled ‘ahi) and loco moco (unagi and foie gras topped with quail egg on lobster chirashi rice). Three-course business lunch weekdays. Sushi bar.

FYI: Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii; 739-8780. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Mondays-Fridays (closed for lunch Saturdays and Sundays), brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Sundays. Dinner 5:30-10 p.m. daily. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $$$.