Chef Mavro

Notable: This small, serene oasis in the midst of the tawdry businesses of the McCully district is unusual in Hawai‘i. It is, like its owner, George Mavrothalassitis, very French in its precision and in asking that diners place themselves in the maison’s hands, allowing his vision to be realized, his vehement ideas about food to be expressed.

Menu: Mavro redesigns his Provence-meets-Pacific menu seasonally, with very few dishes carried over. Heirloom tomatoes and live shrimp arrive at the back door daily, delivered in small portions by the farmers and fishermen themselves. He’d rather fly in chanterelles from France than make do with second-rate mushrooms when Oregon’s having a bad year. Each dish is paired with an appropriate wine chosen by means of a very business-like staff tasting (which has the added advantage of assuring that every member of the staff has tasted every dish).

FYI: 1969 S. King St.; 944-4714. Dinner 6-9:30 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays, closed Mondays. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $$$.

Little Village Noodle House

Notable: There is nothing not to like about this bright, clean place (except maybe the fake bird chirping in the fake tree). The menu is eclectic and interesting; we’ve ranged far and wide and never had a bad dish. The servers make eye contact and know how to describe the dishes and joke you along. They do takeout. And — unheard of in Chinatown — it’s got parking out back!

Menu: Its motto is “simple and healthy” and, as such, the menu notes several dishes made with olive oil rather than less-healthy fats. We love the Shanghai noodles — plump, round, fresh wheat noodles stir-fried with shredded veggies and pork. Also the walnut shrimp, the salt and pepper pork chop, the butterfish in black bean sauce, the ... Well, we just love it.

FYI: 1113 Smith St.; 545-3008. 10:30 a.m.- 10:30 p.m. Sundays-Thursdays, 10:30-midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DS. No checks. $.

L'Uraku

Notable: This sleek, color-splashed restaurant on the ground floor of a luxury condominium is the playground of chef Hiroshi Fukui, born in Yokohama but a Hawai‘i resident since he was 12. While most East-West restaurants here lean toward the West, or have their roots in Island-style Asian traditions, Fukui’s style is described as Euro-Japanese. Fukui believes in “layers of freshness,” he says, and retains the Japanese dedication to pure but subtle flavors.

Menu: Fukui really lets himself go with his Contemporary Sushi appetizers, including Ginger Scallion ‘Ahi Sushi, Seared Foie Gras Sushi and Baked Miso Glazed Salmon. One way to introduce yourself to Fukui’s menu is the economical Weekender Lunch (three courses, including a choice from among nine entrees, for about $20). His occasional Contemporary Kaiseki dinners are worth changing your schedule for; get on the mailing list.

FYI: 1341 Kapi‘olani Blvd.; 955-0552. Lunch 11 a.m.-1:45 p.m. daily. Dinner 5:30-9:45 p.m. daily. Reservations required for large parties, recommended for others. VS, MC, AX, DC, JCB, OliOli. No checks. $$$.

Side Street Inn

Notable: This odd spot, part izakaya, part sports bar, part karaoke hangout and part restaurant, is pretty much perfect when you’re in the mood for hearty bar food, a cold one (or a decent glass of wine) and a chance to warble your version of “Guantanamera” for the edification of your friends. There’s a long bar, several dining areas and a darts room (which is the nonsmoking part).

Menu: If you haven’t heard about the pork chops and fried rice, where, exactly, have you been? Large, plattered portions of these and other hot dishes plus snacks such as edamame (boiled salty soybeans) make this ideal for group meals — pau-hana beers, farewell parties for fellow workers, late-night gatherings after a show. This is where many of Hawai‘i’s chefs go to eat mom-style cooking after the dinner rush at their restaurants.

FYI: 1225 Hopaka St.; 591-0253. Lunch 10:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Pupu menu 4 p.m.-1 a.m. daily. Reservations recommended for large parties. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $

Plumeria Beach Cafe at the Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii

Notable: The Plumeria Beach Café offers a luscious variety of sumptuous buffets and à la carte items that truly capture the “something for everyone” approach. 

Menu: Breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets; casual lunch dishes such as ‘ahi steak sandwich with wasabi aioli, and saimin with shrimp and char siu; and dinner choices such as prime New York steak, fresh island catch of the day and St. Louis ribs with poha berry barbecue sauce. 

FYI: Kahala Mandarin Oriental Hawaii; 739-8759. Breakfast 6:30-10:30 a.m., lunch 11:30-2:30 p.m., dinner 5:30-10 p.m. daily. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. Checks accepted. $$.

Azul at the JW Marriott Ihilani Hotel & Spa

Notable: Azul’s personality is a melange of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, French and Mediterranean, resulting in a memorable dining experience. Chef Randell Ishizu has a sure hand. In contrast to some restaurants where there are so many choices you have to wonder if the kitchen can handle them, Ishizu presents a select menu, well-balanced between lighter and richer dishes, seafood and meats. Two different fixed-price menus are offered.

Menu: Every dish is a masterpiece. When we visited, the Consomme of Oxtail was magnificent, with a large truffle ravioli filled with tender morsels of meat and wild mushrooms. The Grilled Jumbo Scallops, roasted and served in lobster and ancho chile butter sauce, is to die for, and the Salad of Sauteed Foie Gras was perfect, in a pomegranate and balsamic reduction, complex and playful at the same time. 

FYI: JW Marriott Ihilani Resort & Spa, 92-1001 ‘Olani St., Kapolei; 679-0079. Dinner 6-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, closed Sundays and Mondays. Reservations recommended. VS, MC, AX, DC, DS, JCB. No checks. $$$.